Oldsmobile 12592195 Seal Assembly, Crankshaft Rear Oil

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To remove and install the lower half of the rear Crankshaft Seal on Buick 231, 252, and 350 engines and Oldsmobile 307 engines, first remove the oil pan and rear main bearing cap. The old oil seal should be taken off from the cap of the bearing by applying a sealer to its groove. Thereafter use a suitable instrument to roll a new seal into the groove with both ends extending above the surface where cap parts. The working surface of the rope seal should be coated with thin film of chassis grease before being driven into the groove using a smooth tool or hammer handle such that it is not more than 1/8 inch (1.5mm) above this groove. Slightly rotate the tool to cut off those ends of seals which are flush with surface of caps using a razor blade. Soak new neoprene side seals for Buick 231, 252 and 350 engines in kerosene for five minutes, then place them in grooves on bearing caps without cutting them to fit. A sealer must be applied to mating surface of bearing cap between it and block around sealing groove. Reverse steps of removal when installing pan and cap back on. At first run engine at low rpm after new seal is installed. For upper half replacement of oil seals on Buick engines, though advised that crankshaft be removed, crankshaft may remain in place during their replacement.Loosen other crankshaft bearings so that crankshaft comes down about 1/8" (0.062 mm).Lube new seal with oil (for 1975-84 vehicles) or chassis grease (for 1985-87 vehicles) lubricate an old one.Remove excess seals if necessary.Pull each side equally.Replace all bearings; tighten all bolts according to specifications before attaching rod bolts.Chevrolet engines' oil pans, pumps and rear main bearing caps are all removed.For instance, tap upper seal slightly, and pry lower seal out through it.Clean all mating surfaces before installing new seals using a lubricator to place the lip of the seals forward.The installation tool should be used to prevent damages upon the seal by guarding the crankshaft while working around it. No oil should be present on mating surfaces so that one can replace oil pan, pump, and run engine in order to break in new seals.In case of 265 and 301 Pontiac engines, this involves removing the oil pan and baffle, rear main bearing cap, and forming a new seal in the cap.After driving the upper seal into groove on each side until it is packed tightly.Afterwards take pieces from new seal, cut them into lengths slightly longer than required to fill gaps at end of block's portion of said seal; then insert them packing these tightly.None must be trimmed. Apply a 1/16 inch bead of silicone sealer from center of gasket across to external gasket groove.Reassemble the cap and tighten bolts according to specifications before refitting oil pan.Finally run engine slowly for first few minutes so as to break in new seal.The upper oil seal can be replaced without removing crankshaft on 263, 350 and 403 Oldsmobile engines.Drain crankcase; remove oil pan and rear main bearing cap.Therefore drive upper seals on both sides till they are tight.Then cut these pieces little longer than necessary for filling grooves and stuff them into these grooves.Place shim stock between the seal and crankshaft before trimming any protruding material from surface of bearing without leaving scratch marks.Put another one in cap.Reinstall this alongside its bolts that will need specified torque values.Last but not least, refit oil pan.

Always service both halves of the rear Crankshaft Seal as a unit. While replacing this seal is much easier with the engine removed from the car, it can be done with the engine in place. Begin by removing the oil pan and oil pump, followed by the rear main bearing cap from the engine. Use a screwdriver to pry the lower half of the Crankshaft Seal from the bearing cap. For the upper half, utilize a small hammer and a brass pin punch to roll the seal around the crankshaft journal, tapping one end until the other end protrudes enough to pull it out with pliers. Clean all sealant and foreign material from the cylinder bearing cap and case without using abrasive cleaners, and inspect components for nicks, scratches, or burrs at all sealing surfaces. Coat the seal lips of the new seal with light engine oil, avoiding oil on the seal mating ends. A small plastic installation tool should be included with the purchase of the rear Crankshaft Seal. Position the narrow end of this tool between the crankshaft and the seal seat to protect the new seal from damage. Raise the new upper half of the seal into position with the seal lips facing the front of the engine, pushing it onto its seat while using the installation tool for protection. Roll the seal around the crankshaft, using the tool as a shoehorn, and once both ends of the seal are flush with the engine block, carefully remove the installation tool without withdrawing the seal. Install the lower half of the Crankshaft Seal to the bearing cap, again using the installation tool for protection, ensuring the seal is firmly seated before withdrawing the tool. Smear a bit of sealant to the bearing cap areas adjacent to the seal ends, then install the bearing cap with the seal and torque the attaching bolts to about 10 to 12 ft-lb. Tap the end of the crankshaft first rearward, then forward to align the thrust surfaces, retorque the bearing cap bolts to the proper specification, and finally install the oil pump and oil pan.

Remove the flywheel/driveplate. Carefully remove the Crankshaft Seal from the engine block using a thin screwdriver or seal removal tool. Be very careful not to damage the crankshaft surface while prying the seal out. Clean the bore in the block and the seal contact surface on the crankshaft. Check the seal contact surface on the crankshaft for scratches and nicks that could damage the new seal lip and cause oil leaks. If the crankshaft is damaged, the only alternative is a new or different crankshaft. Inspect the seal bore for nicks and scratches. Carefully smooth it with a fine file if necessary, but don't nick the crankshaft in the process. It is recommended to use a special tool to install the new Crankshaft Seal. Lubricate the Crankshaft Seal lips. Slide the seal onto the mandril until the dust lip bottoms squarely against the collar of the tool. If the special tool isn't available, carefully work the seal lip over the crankshaft and tap it into place with a hammer and punch. Align the dowel pin on the tool with the dowel pin hole in the crankshaft and attach the tool to the crankshaft by hand-tightening the bolts. Turn the tool handle until the collar bottoms against the case, seating the seal. Loosen the tool handle and remove the bolts. Remove the tool. Check the seal and make sure it's seated squarely in the bore. Install the flywheel/driveplate. Install the transaxle.

The rear crankshaft bearing oil seal can be changed without taking out the oil pan or crankshaft. The first thing you need to do is to remove the transmission. If you have a manual transmission, remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. You'll then take out the flywheel or driveplate. Carefully pry the seal out of the block using a seal removal tool or large screwdriver. However, ensure that you don't scratch or nick the crankshaft in this process. After removing it in this way, clean bore in the block and crankshaft at seal contact surface. Determine whether there are any scratches, nicks on its surface that might damage new seal lip and therefore lead to oil leakage. When crankshaft is damaged, new different crankshaft is required only. Lightly coat both outer edge of a new seal with clean engine oil and the lip of its mouth with engine oil as well. Use J34924 GM tool(if available) and press it into place until it is fully seated with rear facing towards front of engine where necessary, otherwise just carefully work seal lip over end of crankshaft and tap seal into bore until square and seated with hammer and blunt drift when no tool is available. Next step is installation of a flywheel or driveplate as per your choice; on other hand if it's a manual transmission reinstall pressure plate plus clutch disc accordingly after which fix back transmission eventually.

Always replace both halves of the rear Crankshaft Seal as a unit. While the replacement of this seal is much easier with the engine removed from the car, the job can be done with the engine in place. Remove the oil pan and oil pump as previously described, then take off the rear main bearing cap from the engine. Using a screwdriver, pry the lower half of the Crankshaft Seal from the bearing cap. To remove the upper half of the seal, use a small hammer and a brass pin punch to roll the seal around the crankshaft journal, tapping one end until the other end protrudes enough to pull it out with pliers. Clean all sealant and foreign material from the cylinder bearing cap and case without using an abrasive cleaner. Inspect components for nicks, scratches, or burrs at all sealing surfaces. Coat the seal lips of the new seal with light engine oil, avoiding oil on the seal mating ends. A small plastic installation tool should be included with the purchase of the rear Crankshaft Seal; if not, make one by cutting an old feeler gauge blade. Position the narrow end of this tool between the crankshaft and the seal seat to protect the new seal from damage. Raise the new upper half of the seal into position with the seal lips facing towards the front of the engine, pushing it onto its seat while using the installation tool as protection. Roll the seal around the crankshaft, using the tool as a protector, and when both ends of the seal are flush with the engine block, carefully remove the installation tool without withdrawing the seal. Install the lower half of the Crankshaft Seal to the bearing cap, again using the installation tool for protection. Ensure the seal is firmly seated before withdrawing the installation tools. Smear a bit of sealant on the bearing cap areas adjacent to the seal ends, then install the bearing cap with the seal and torque the attaching bolts to about 10-12 ft. lb. Tap the end of the crankshaft first rearward, then forward to line up the thrust surfaces, and retorque the bearing cap bolts to the proper specification. For Oldsmobile engines, with the oil pan, oil pump, and main bearing cap removed, insert packing tool BT-6433 or an equivalent brass punch against the seal, driving the old seal into its groove until packed tight at each end. Measure how much the seal was driven upwards, then add 16/1 in. and cut this length from the old seal taken from the bearing cap. Place a drop of sealant on each end of these seal pieces and pack them into the upper groove to fill the gap made previously. Trim the remaining material perfectly flush with the block, being careful not to harm the bearing surface. A special GM tool (BT-6466) is available for this purpose. Install a new rope seal into the main bearing cap groove, pushing firmly all around using a hammer handle or special GM tool. Ensure the seal is firmly seated, then trim the ends flush with the bearing cap mating surface. Finally, install the cap and remaining components in reverse order, tightening all parts to specifications.

Lift the driveplate / clutch assembly and, if equipped, the flywheel also, if it hasn't been done yet. They include; The screwdriver should be small, in order to remove the old Crankshaft Seal without damaging the crankshaft sealing surface or the seal bore. Scrub the seal bore and the crankshaft face in which the seal is fitted with great care, then check the crankshaft for any roughness that may harm the seal lip and cause oil leaks. If only minor pitting is found, the area should be wiped with crocus cloth; if the pitting is too deep, the crankshaft must be replaced. A very important tool as a means of seating the seal is the special seal installation tool to avoid damaging it during installation. Clean the sealing bore, the sealing lips and the crankshaft sealing face with clean engine oil. Place the seal atop the tool's mandrill in a manner that the dust lip rests against the collar, then turn the dowel pin to fit the crankshaft hole. Fasten the tool to the crankshaft with the supplied bolts; tighten the Crankshaft Seal by rotating the tool's "T" until the seal's collar contacts block; then, unscrew tool. If the special tool is not available, proceed cautiously while using the seal lip to fit around the crankshaft end and then use hammer and a mild faced drift to put the seal lip in the proper position. Last of all, replace the driveplate or flywheel and clutch assembly, and secure the retaining bolts to the required degree of turn.

Torque all main bearing cap attaching bolts to the proper specification, except for the number 5 (L4) or number 3 (V6) main bearing cap, which should be torqued to about 10 to 12 ft-lb initially.

Position the pulley hub on the crankshaft and, using a slight twisting motion, slide it through the seal until it bottoms against the crankshaft gear.

Ensure that the seal enters the bore squarely and stop when the front face is at the appropriate depth.

The lower seal section should be installed in the block with the lip facing the front and should be ensured to be seated properly.

First, remove the oil pan. Then, remove the bolts and detach the seal housing. Drive the old seal out from the back side with a punch and hammer.

Apply a thin coat of ATV-type sealant to the outer edge of the new seal.

Check for oil leaks at the seal.

The new seal should be pressed into place with a special tool, if available. If not available, it should be carefully worked over the end of the crankshaft and tapped in with a hammer and blunt punch until seated in the bore.

The first step is to disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal and remove the drivebelt.

Place the new seal onto the tool, position the drive drum over it, and install the other tool pieces onto the shaft, noting that the seal fits onto the tool in only one way.

Scratching or damaging the crankshaft sealing surface or the bore in the engine block can lead to oil leaks after the new seal is installed.

Carefully pry the oil seal out of the cover. If a seal removal tool is unavailable, you can partially thread a self-tapping screw into the seal and use pliers as a lever to extract it.

Carefully pry the old oil seal out of the timing chain cover using a seal puller or a large screwdriver, taking care not to damage the crankshaft or distort the cover.

The first step is to disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal.

Remove the crankshaft pulley and take note of how the seal is installed, ensuring the new one is positioned to the same depth and orientation.

It is important for proper installation depth of the new seal.

Lubricate the outside diameter of the new seal.

Lubricate the balancer hub with clean engine oil before reinstalling the crankshaft balancer.

Check the pulley hub's surface for grooves caused by long-term contact with the seal; if present, a press-on sleeve may be used to renew the sealing surface.

The upper and lower fan shrouds, the cooling fan, and the drive belt.

You should drive the new seal into place with a large socket and a hammer, ensuring it enters the bore squarely and is driven in until the front face is flush with the cover.

Remove the transaxle and then the driveplate.

Lubricate the balancer hub with clean engine oil before reinstalling the crankshaft balancer.

The remainder of the installation follows the reverse order of removal, after which add oil as necessary, run the engine, and check for leaks.

It is important to check that each of the five main bearing caps is marked for its location in the engine block; if not, small indentations should be made to match the markings for the connecting rods and caps.

Support the cover on blocks of wood and position the new seal in the bore with the open end of the seal facing IN.

A thin coat of RTV-type sealant should be applied to the outer edge of the new seal, and the seal lip should be lubricated with moly-base grease or clean engine oil.

Finally, reinstall the driveplate and then the transaxle.

Lubricate the cap bolts and install them without tightening. Use a hammer and a block of wood to tap the shaft back and forth for alignment of the center main bearing, holding the crankshaft to the front while tightening the No. 3 cap bolts, followed by the remaining cap bolts.

It is important to be very careful not to scratch or damage the crankshaft sealing surface or the bore in the engine block.

Remove the timing chain cover.

Align the dowel pin on the tool with the dowel pin hole in the crankshaft and attach the tool by hand-tightening the bolts.

If the vehicle has a manual transmission, you should also reinstall the clutch disc and pressure plate.

Install the new seal in the cover with the lip facing inward, using a seal driver or a large socket and hammer to drive it into place, ensuring it enters squarely and stops at the correct depth.

Install the crankshaft pulley, and the remainder of the installation follows the reverse order of removal.

Install the new seal with the helical lip toward the rear of the engine, driving it into place with a seal installation tool or a large socket, or using a block of wood and hammer if space allows.

Ensure the seal enters the bore squarely and stops when the front face is at the proper depth.

Position the seal housing on wood blocks on a workbench.

Inspect the seal bore for nicks and scratches, smoothing it with a fine file if needed, but avoid nicking the crankshaft.

Check the seal journal for scratches and nicks before crankshaft installation, and remove the old seal from the housing using a hammer and punch, taking care to note its recessed depth for the new seal.

Apply clean engine oil or multi-purpose grease to the outer edge of the new seal.

Remove the flywheel/drive plate.

The first step is to remove the crankshaft pulley.

Inspect the oil seal, oil pan, and engine block surface for signs of leakage, as an oil pan gasket leak can sometimes mimic a rear oil seal leak.

Sleeves are available that fit over the groove, restoring the contact surface to like-new condition. These sleeves are sometimes included with the seal kit, so check with your parts supplier for details.

Remove the crankshaft pulley.

You should drive the new seal into place with a large socket and a hammer, ensuring it enters the bore squarely and is driven in until the front face is flush with the cover.

Use a breaker bar and socket to remove the crankshaft pulley center bolt, discarding the old bolt and obtaining a new one for installation.