GM 14090906 Seal,Crankshaft Front Oil

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Remove the vibration damper. Take note of how the seal is installed-the new one must be installed to the same depth and facing the same direction. Carefully pry the oil seal out of the cover using a seal puller or a large screwdriver. Be extremely cautious to avoid distorting the cover or scratching the crankshaft! Wrap electricians tape around the tip of the screwdriver to prevent damage to the crankshaft. Apply clean engine oil or multi-purpose grease to the lips and outer edge of the new seal, then install it in the cover with the lip(spring side) facing inward. Drive the seal into place using a large socket and a hammer (if a large socket is not available, a piece of pipe will also suffice). Ensure that the seal enters the bore squarely and stop when the front face is at the appropriate depth. Reinstall the vibration damper.

The front crankshaft oil seal is replaceable with the timing gear cover in position but it may be convenient to remove the cover because of the tight clearance. The first is to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, then to remove the hub of the crankshaft pulley, but before that, one should always disable the anti theft system of the car audio. The installation direction of the seal should be marked, as the new seal must be installed in the same position. As a result, you need to remove the old oil seal carefully with the help of a seal puller or a large screwdriver without distortion of scratches. Before installing the new seal, use clean engine oil or multi-purpose grease on the outer perimeter of the new seal and position it with the lips toward the inside of the cover and with use of a large socket and hammer, pound it to flush with the cover. If the timing gear cover is removed, put it on a flat surface to push out the old seal lest you harm the cover or the seal bore. Before removing the seal subsequently from the cover, it is advisable to use penetrating oil in or on the seal-to-cover joint. Remove any of the old components and corrosive matter inside the bore of the shaft and place the new seal in the appropriate place so that the lip of the seal is towards the center and this must be done gently with the help of oil. Pump the seal into the bore until it is flush with the outer diameter of the bore hole, this can be done by using a socket or any other appropriate tool as use of a hammer may cause the seal to crack. Last but not the least install the timing gear cover back to its position on the vehicle's engine.

Remove the crankshaft pulley. Pry the old oil seal out with a seal removal tool or a screwdriver. Be very careful not to nick or otherwise damage the crankshaft in the process. Wrap the screwdriver tip with vinyl tape to protect the crankshaft. Apply a thin coat of ATV-type sealant to the outer edge of the new seal. Lubricate the seal lip with moly-base grease or clean engine oil. Place the seal squarely in position in the bore and drive it into place. If you don't have the special, carefully tap the seal into place with a large socket or piece of pipe and a hammer. The outer diameter of the socket or pipe should be the same size as the seal outer diameter. Make sure the seal is seated completely in the bore. Install the crankshaft pulley. Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. Start the engine and check for oil leaks at the seal.

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Remove the upper and lower fan shrouds, the cooling fan, and the drive belt. Remove the bolts and separate the crankshaft drive belt pulley from the vibration damper. Remove the lower flywheel cover and have an assistant wedge a large screwdriver in the flywheel ring gear teeth to hold the engine from turning while you remove the bolt from the front of the crankshaft with a socket and breaker bar. Then use a puller to detach the vibration damper. Carefully pry the seal out of the cover with a seal removal tool or a large screwdriver. Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion. Position the new seal in the bore with the open end of the seal facing IN. Apply a light film of grease to the lip of the seal. Drive the seal into the bore with GM tool no. J-23042A, or equivalent, until it's completely seated. Reinstall the vibration damper, aligning its groove with the keyway in the crankshaft. Use a punch or screwdriver and hammer to drive the Crankshaft Seal out of the cover from the back side. Support the cover as close to the seal bore as possible. Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion. Support the cover on blocks of wood and position the new seal in the bore with the open end of the seal facing IN. Drive the Crankshaft Seal into the bore with a large socket and hammer until it's completely seated. Reinstall the cover. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of the disassembly. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Remove the vibration damper. Pry the old oil seal out with a seal removal tool or a screwdriver. Be very careful not to nick or otherwise damage the crankshaft in the process and do not distort the timing chain cover. Apply a thin coat of RTV-type sealant to the outer edge of the new seal. Lubricate the seal lip with moly-base grease or clean engine oil. Place the seal squarely in position in the bore with the spring side facing in. Carefully tap the seal into place with a large socket or section of pipe and a hammer. The outer diameter of the socket or pipe should be the same size as the seal's outer diameter. Install the vibration damper. Start the engine and check for oil leaks at the seal.

Crankshaft pulley should also be unfastened and pay attention to how the seal is fitted, then repeat the same with the new one in terms of depth and position. Using a seal puller or a large screwdriver gently remove the oil seal from the cover without damaging the crankshaft or distorting the cover. In order not to mar the surface, an electrician's tape should be wound around the tip of the screwdriver. Use clean engine oil or multipurpose grease on outer periphery of new seal and fit the cover where this lip is to be inside. Tighten the seal centrally with a seal driver or a large socket and hammer, so that the seal fits the bore correctly and reaches the required depth before it is counter sunk. Over time an indentation or a groove may appear on the outer surface of the pulley hub where it has been in contact with the seal; a press-on sleeve is used to rebuild this sealing surface and this can be done using a hammer and a block of wood. Before installing crankshaft pulley clean the hub with some engine oil and fit the vibration damper installation tool to fix onto the crankshaft to press it into place. Last, fit the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and torque it to the appropriate value and finally to complete in backward way of what was removed.

Remove the crankshaft balancer and note how the seal is installed, ensuring the new one is positioned to the same depth and orientation. Carefully pry the oil seal out of the cover using a seal puller or a large screwdriver, taking care not to damage the crankshaft or distort the cover; wrapping electrician's tape around the screwdriver tip can help prevent damage. If replacing the seal with the timing chain cover removed, support the cover on two blocks of wood and drive the seal out from the backside using a hammer and punch, being cautious not to scratch or distort the area where the seal fits to avoid leaks. Apply clean engine oil or multi-purpose grease to the outer edge of the new seal and install it in the cover with the lip facing inward, using a large socket and hammer to drive it into place, ensuring it enters the bore squarely and stops at the proper depth. Check the surface on the balancer hub where the oil seal rides; if it is grooved, a press-on sleeve may be available to renew the sealing surface, which can be pressed into place with a hammer and a block of wood. Lubricate the balancer hub with clean engine oil and reinstall the crankshaft balancer, completing the installation in reverse order of removal.

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Remove the upper and lower fan shrouds, the cooling fan, and the drive belt. Remove the bolts and separate the crankshaft drive belt pulley from the vibration damper. Remove the lower flywheel cover and have an assistant wedge a large screwdriver in the flywheel ring gear teeth to hold the engine from turning while you remove the bolt from the front of the crankshaft with a socket and breaker bar. Then use a puller to detach the vibration damper. Carefully pry the seal out of the cover with a seal removal tool or a large screwdriver. Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion. Position the new seal in the bore with the open end of the seal facing IN. Apply a light film of grease to the lip of the seal. Drive the seal into the bore with GM tool no. J-23042A, or equivalent, until it's completely seated. Reinstall the vibration damper, aligning its groove with the keyway in the crankshaft. Use a punch or screwdriver and hammer to drive the Crankshaft Seal out of the cover from the back side. Support the cover as close to the seal bore as possible. Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion. Support the cover on blocks of wood and position the new seal in the bore with the open end of the seal facing IN. Drive the Crankshaft Seal into the bore with a large socket and hammer until it's completely seated. Reinstall the cover. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of the disassembly. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Remove the upper and lower fan shrouds, the cooling fan, and the drive belt. Remove the bolts and separate the crankshaft drive belt pulley from the vibration damper. Remove the lower flywheel cover and have an assistant wedge a large screwdriver in the flywheel ring gear teeth to hold the engine from turning while you remove the bolt from the front of the crankshaft with a socket and breaker bar. Then use a puller to detach the vibration damper. Carefully pry the seal out of the cover with a seal removal tool or a large screwdriver. Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion. Position the new seal in the bore with the open end of the seal facing IN. Apply a light film of grease to the lip of the seal. Drive the seal into the bore with GM tool no. J-23042A, or equivalent, until it's completely seated. Reinstall the vibration damper, aligning its groove with the keyway in the crankshaft. Use a punch or screwdriver and hammer to drive the Crankshaft Seal out of the cover from the back side. Support the cover as close to the seal bore as possible. Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion. Support the cover on blocks of wood and position the new seal in the bore with the open end of the seal facing IN. Drive the Crankshaft Seal into the bore with a large socket and hammer until it's completely seated. Reinstall the cover. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of the disassembly. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal. Remove the drive belt. Raise the vehicle and securely place it on jackstands. Remove the hub retaining bolt. Place a bar through one of the pulley holes and wedge it against the bottom of the front cover to keep the pulley from turning while loosening the pulley bolts. Remove the pulley hub. Use a puller if necessary. Note how the seal is installed-the new one must face the same direction! Carefully pry the Crankshaft Seal out of the cover with a seal puller or a large screwdriver. Be very careful not to distort the cover or scratch the crankshaft! Apply a thin layer of engine oil or multi-purpose grease to the Crankshaft Seal lip and to the outer edge of the new seal. Install the seal in the cover with the lip (open end) facing IN. Drive the seal into place with a large socket and a hammer. Make sure the seal enters the bore squarely and is driven in until the front face is flush with the cover. The seal can also be replaced if the timing chain cover has been removed for other work. Support the cover on a block of wood and drive the seal out from the backside. Install a new seal into the bore. Reinstall the timing chain cover with a bead of RTV sealant applied to the mating surface of the oil pan. Apply a small amount of RTV sealant on the crankshaft Woodruff key. Align the slot in the hub with the crankshaft Woodriff key, then press the hub onto the crankshaft until it bottoms against the crankshaft timing gear. The hub retaining bolt can be used to press the hub into position. Install the crankshaft pulley on the hub. Use a non-hardening thread-locking compound on the bolt threads. Tighten the hub-to-crankshaft bolt. Install the drive belt.

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Remove the upper and lower fan shrouds, the cooling fan, and the drive belt. Remove the bolts and separate the crankshaft drive belt pulley from the vibration damper. Remove the lower flywheel cover and have an assistant wedge a large screwdriver in the flywheel ring gear teeth to hold the engine from turning while you remove the bolt from the front of the crankshaft with a socket and breaker bar. Then use a puller to detach the vibration damper. Carefully pry the seal out of the cover with a seal removal tool or a large screwdriver. Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion. Position the new seal in the bore with the open end of the seal facing IN. Apply a light film of grease to the lip of the seal. Drive the seal into the bore with GM tool no. J-23042A, or equivalent, until it's completely seated. Reinstall the vibration damper, aligning its groove with the keyway in the crankshaft. Use a punch or screwdriver and hammer to drive the Crankshaft Seal out of the cover from the back side. Support the cover as close to the seal bore as possible. Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion. Support the cover on blocks of wood and position the new seal in the bore with the open end of the seal facing IN. Drive the Crankshaft Seal into the bore with a large socket and hammer until it's completely seated. Reinstall the cover. The remainder of the installation is the reverse of the disassembly. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal. Loosen the accessory drivebelt tension adjusting bolts as necessary and remove the drivebelts, tagging each belt for easier reinstallation. With the parking brake applied and the shifter in Park for automatic or in gear for manual to prevent the engine from turning over, remove the crankshaft pulley bolt, using a breaker bar if needed due to tightness. Mark the position of the pulley in relation to the hub, then remove the bolts and separate the pulley from the hub. Use a puller to remove the hub from the crankshaft. Carefully pry the oil seal out of the front cover with a large screwdriver, taking care not to distort the cover. Install the new seal with the helical lip toward the rear of the engine, driving it into place with a seal installation tool or a large socket, or using a block of wood and hammer if space allows. Apply a thin layer of clean multipurpose grease to the seal contact surface of the hub. Position the pulley hub on the crankshaft and slide it through the seal until it bottoms against the crankshaft gear, ensuring the slot in the hub aligns with the Woodruff key in the crankshaft. The hub-to-crankshaft bolt can be used to press the hub into position. Install the crank pulley on the hub, aligning it with the marks made during removal, and coat the pulley-to-hub bolts with thread-locking compound before tightening the hub-to-crankshaft and pulley-to-hub bolts to the specified torque. The remaining installation steps follow the reverse order of removal, ensuring the drivebelts are tightened to the proper tension.

Remove the crankshaft pulley. Pry the old oil seal out with a seal removal tool or a screwdriver, being very careful not to nick or damage the crankshaft; wrapping the screwdriver tip with vinyl tape can help protect it. Apply a thin coat of ATV-type sealant to the outer edge of the new seal and lubricate the seal lip with moly-base grease or clean engine oil. Place the seal squarely in position in the bore and drive it into place with special tool J-35468 or an equivalent. If a special tool is not available, carefully tap the seal into place using a large socket or piece of pipe and a hammer, ensuring the outer diameter of the socket or pipe matches the seal's outer diameter, and confirm that the seal is seated completely in the bore. Install the crankshaft pulley and reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. Start the engine and check for oil leaks at the seal.

To get the crankshaft pulley off you will have to unplug the cable for the negative terminal on the battery and take off the drivebelt. Jack up the vehicle and adequately place jackstands then on the lower part of the car, remove the splash shield. Employ a breaker bar and socket to take out the crankshaft pulley center bolt; toss the old bolt and acquire a brand new bolt for replacement. Secure the shaft in position with a strap wrench or a tool if there is no other way; use an old drive belt if insufficient room exists. Slide the puller off the nose of the crankshaft; if the pulley is stuck, use a puller that bolts to the three threaded holes in the pulley hub, together with spacer so that crankshaft is not scratched. Dispose with the crankshaft front oil seal using the seal puller in such way so that it will not harm the crankshaft or the seal bore Clean the seal bore and ensure that there's no nicks or gouges. Looking at the hub area, see whether there is an excessive wear and if the repair sleeve should be used. Cleaning of the lip should be done using clean engine oil and then install the new seal into the bore by use of a seal driver or socket of a size that is slightly smaller than the seal in question and make sure that the open side of the seal is positioned towards the inside of the engine. Apply clean engine oil on the sealing surface of the hub and fix the crankshaft pulley/damper with crankshaft pulley/damper installation tool do not use hammer. Replace damaged center bolt with a new one and tighten it to the required torque; the new pulley bolt has to be used. Last but not the least, they make the conclusion of the installation by reversing the method you have followed to remove the connection and reconnect the battery.

Remove the transmission and flywheel to access the seal housing, then pry out the old seal, ensuring not to damage the bore.

Inspect the rear main bearing cap and engine block mating surfaces, as well as the seal grooves, for any defects. Remove any defects with a fine file or deburring tool.

The crankshaft journal should be checked for scratches and nicks.

Yes, the rear main bearing oil seal can be replaced without removing the oil pan or crankshaft.

After removing the old seal, you should clean the bore in the block and the seal contact surface on the crankshaft.

After disconnecting the battery terminal, the drive belt must be removed.

First, remove the oil pan. Then, remove the bolts and detach the seal housing. Drive the old seal out from the back side with a punch and hammer.

If the seal bore has nicks and scratches, carefully smooth it with a fine file if necessary, but be careful not to nick the crankshaft in the process.

Remove the crankshaft balancer and take note of how the seal is installed, ensuring the new one is positioned to the same depth and orientation.

Install the housing bolts and tighten them to the specified torque, then remove the alignment tool.

Use a vibration damper installation tool to press it onto the crankshaft.

Avoid getting oil on the rubber part of the seal or the crankshaft pulley contact area, as the seal must be installed dry.

If marked, ensure that the words "THIS SIDE OUT" on the seal face out, toward the rear of the engine.

Install a new center bolt and tighten it to the specified torque, ensuring a new pulley bolt is used.

The rear seal housing should ideally be flush with the oil pan rail, but a tolerance of 0.000 to 0.020 inch is acceptable. Care should be taken not to distort the rear oil seal during alignment.

The new seal can be tapped into place using a hammer and a piece of pipe or blunt punch, ensuring even placement until it bottoms.

A large socket can be used to drive the seal squarely into the bore and flush with the rear cover.

Pry the oil seal from the block with a screwdriver, taking care not to nick or scratch the crankshaft or seal bore.

Check the surface on the balancer hub where the oil seal rides; if it is grooved, a press-on sleeve may be available to renew the sealing surface.

Lubricate the pulley hub with clean engine oil.

Install the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and tighten it to the specified torque, completing the installation in reverse order of removal.

Carefully pry the oil seal from the rear cover using a screwdriver, ensuring not to nick or scratch the crankshaft or the seal bore.

Clean the seal bore thoroughly with a shop towel, ensuring all oil and dirt are removed.

A large socket, section of pipe, or blunt tool can be used to drive the seal squarely into the bore and flush with the rear cover.

Check the surface on the balancer hub that the oil seal rides on. If the surface has been grooved from long-time contact with the seal, replace the crankshaft balancer.

If the special tool is not available, you can carefully work the seal lip over the end of the crankshaft and tap the seal in with a hammer and a blunt drift until it's seated squarely in the bore.

Install the main bearing caps with bearings over the crankshaft and onto the cylinder block, ensuring the arrows point toward the front of the engine.

It should be installed in the correct orientation, with the seal part number visible when it's installed.

Remove the timing chain cover.

The initial components to be removed are the crankshaft pulley and the vibration damper.

The seal bore in the block should be thoroughly cleaned with a shop towel, removing all oil and dirt.

Before installation, you should apply a thin layer of engine oil or multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip and to the outer edge of the new seal.

The driveplate and the transmission should be installed.

If the timing chain cover is removed, you should support the cover on top of two blocks of wood and drive the seal out from the backside with a hammer and punch.

Before reinstalling the timing chain cover, a bead of RTV sealant should be applied to the mating surface of the oil pan.

The seal lip must face toward the front of the engine.

Yes, a special aftermarket tool may be available at local auto parts stores to assist with this process; it fits the diameter of the seal and, when used with a hammer, drives the seal in without exceeding the depth of the original installation.

All surfaces should be lubricated with a small amount of engine oil before installing the seal.

Unbolt the main bearing caps and carefully lift each cap along with its corresponding bearing off the crankshaft, placing them on a workspace numbered to correspond with their positions in the engine block.

Install a new rope seal into the main bearing cap groove, pushing firmly all around using a hammer handle or special GM tool. Ensure the seal is firmly seated, then trim the ends flush with the bearing cap mating surface.

A special aftermarket tool may be available at local auto parts stores to assist with this process.

GM tool no. J34924 can be used to press the new seal into place if available.

Install the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and tighten it to the specified torque, completing the installation in reverse order of removal.

Check the surface on the pulley hub where the oil seal rides; if it is grooved from long-term contact, the pulley should be replaced.

Secure the tool to the crankshaft using the provided bolts and install the seal by rotating the tool's "T" handle until the collar bottoms against the block, then remove the tool.

Note how the seal is installed. The new one must be installed to the same depth and facing the same way.

Check the seal journal for scratches and nicks before crankshaft installation, and remove the old seal from the housing using a hammer and punch, taking care to note its recessed depth for the new seal.

A thin coat of RTV-type sealant should be applied to the outer edge of the new seal, and the seal lip should be lubricated with moly-base grease or clean engine oil.

The seal lip should be lubricated with clean engine oil.

Install the housing bolts and tighten them to the specified torque before removing the alignment tool.

A special tool is recommended for installing the new oil seal. Lubricate the lips of the seal with clean engine oil and slide the seal onto the mandril until the dust lip bottoms squarely against the collar of the tool.

Apply clean engine oil or multi-purpose grease to the outer edge of the new seal.

Clean the bore in the block and the seal contact surface on the crankshaft, checking for scratches and nicks that could damage the new seal lip and cause oil leaks. If the crankshaft is damaged, a new or different crankshaft is necessary.

Pry the old oil seal out with a seal removal tool or a screwdriver, being very careful not to nick or otherwise damage the crankshaft in the process.

Start the engine and check for oil leaks at the seal.

The first step is to remove the transaxle and the driveplate.

Carefully pry the oil seal out of the cover using a seal puller or a large screwdriver, taking care not to distort the cover or scratch the crankshaft.

Carefully push the new seal onto the crankshaft, using a smooth object to assist as you push the housing against the block.

Check that the seal is seated squarely in the bore.