Q: What are some common causes and solutions for starter problems?
A: Check that the battery is fully charged before diagnosing starter problems. If the starter does not turn at all when the switch is operated, verify if the shift lever is in Neutral or Park (automatic transmission) or if the clutch pedal is depressed (manual transmission). Make sure that both cables at the battery and Starter Solenoid terminals are clean and secure, and also ensure that the battery is charged. When the starter spins but the engine doesn't crank, it means that overrunning clutch inside it has slipped and hence requires replacement of the starter. When you hear a clicking sound from the solenoid but nothing happens with the starter, then it could be due to a faulty battery, main solenoid contacts, the whole starter itself, or else a seized engine. In case you cannot hear any sound from the solenoid plunger while switching it on, indicating that your solenoid may be bad due to a burned fusible link, defective solenoid, or dead battery. To test this solenoid, connect a jumper lead between the positive (+) terminal of the battery and the ignition switch wire terminal on it. The start operating end shows its condition as normal if it operates well there since this confirms that either the ignition switch should be worked on, the neutral start switch needs repairs, or a wiring problem has occurred. If this happens then remove the assembly of starter/solenoid for dissection; testing (with) repair purposes. If the starter cranks very slowly make sure that your terminals are tight, and check to see whether the battery is charged. It may crank slowly if the engine is partially seized or has the wrong viscosity oil. To test the starting motor, run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached, disconnect the coil wire from the distributor cap running to ground on the engine. Connecting a voltmeter positive lead to the positive battery post joining the negative lead to the negative post. Crank the engine and take voltmeter readings as soon as a steady figure is indicated, not exceeding 15 seconds of the starter turning. A reading of 9 volts or more at normal cranking speed is normal, indicating a faulty Starter if the cranking speed is slow. If the reading is less than 9 volts and the cranking speed is slow, it could indicate burned solenoid contacts, a bad starter, discharged battery, or a bad connection.
Q: How to remove and install a starter motor on a Pontiac Grand Prix?
A: On some vehicles, it may be necessary to remove the exhaust pipe(s) or frame crossmember to gain access to the starter. In extreme cases it may even be necessary to unbolt the mounts and raise the engine slightly to get the starter out. Detach the negative cable from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly, as necessary. On the 3800, remove the upper mounting bracket, the cooling fan, and the oil cooler lines from the radiator. Raise the vehicle and support it firmly on jackstands. On 3.4 liter, 3800, and 3100 V6 engines with 4T60-E/4T65-E transaxles, remove the flywheel inspection cover. Remove the oil filter splash shield, if necessary. On the 3800, remove the engine harness retainers and position the harness away from the starter. Clearly label, then detach the electrical connectors from the starter. Remove the mounting bolts and nuts (if equipped), then remove the starter. Note the location of any shims used. Installation is the reverse of removal.