Oldsmobile 10036788 Seal Assembly, Crankshaft Rear Oil

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Where a new or re-ground crankshaft is to be fitted, or the original one has been re-ground, the correct bearings must be fitted. The V6 engines require the rear main bearing oil seal to be fitted with the upper half seated on the cylinder block seat and the lower half on the rear main bearing cap with the lips turned forward. If two lips are available place the one helix forward. For the seal halves install the protector installation tool and lubricate the seal lips with fresh engine oil. Place the main bearings in the cylinder block and bolt the main bearing caps in place; apply engine assembly lube to the bearing surfaces. Be very gentle in placing the crankshaft in its corresponding location so as not to scrap the bearing surfaces off the journals. It is necessary to put a layer of brush-on sealer on the block mating surface and the related surface of the bearing cap while the crankshaft or seal should not be contacted. Place securing bolts of the main bearing caps on the crankshaft and onto the cylinder block in a manner to face an arrow on the bearing. Tighten all the main bearing cap attaching bolts to the prescribed torque, apart from the number 5 (L4) or number 3 (V6) main bearing cap which should be initially tightened to about 15-18 Nm. Gently strike the end of the crankshaft with a lead hammer if the rear bearing is not seated properly, then re-torque all bearing cap bolts to the prescribed standards. For crankshaft end play, push the crankshaft forwards and check with the feeler gauge the clearance between the front of main bearing and the crankshaft thrust surface. Last put in the rear oil seal and the flywheel to help rotate the engine during reassembly, for L4 engines place the Woodruff key into the slot in the end of the crankshaft then put in the crankshaft timing gear and be sure that the timed mark on the crankshaft and camshaft gears match.

Always service both halves of the rear Crankshaft Seal as a unit. While replacing this seal is much easier with the engine removed from the car, it can be done with the engine in place. Begin by removing the oil pan and oil pump, followed by the rear main bearing cap from the engine. Use a screwdriver to pry the lower half of the Crankshaft Seal from the bearing cap. For the upper half, utilize a small hammer and a brass pin punch to roll the seal around the crankshaft journal, tapping one end until the other end protrudes enough to pull it out with pliers. Clean all sealant and foreign material from the cylinder bearing cap and case without using abrasive cleaners, and inspect components for nicks, scratches, or burrs at all sealing surfaces. Coat the seal lips of the new seal with light engine oil, avoiding oil on the seal mating ends. A small plastic installation tool should be included with the purchase of the rear Crankshaft Seal. Position the narrow end of this tool between the crankshaft and the seal seat to protect the new seal from damage. Raise the new upper half of the seal into position with the seal lips facing the front of the engine, pushing it onto its seat while using the installation tool for protection. Roll the seal around the crankshaft, using the tool as a shoehorn, and once both ends of the seal are flush with the engine block, carefully remove the installation tool without withdrawing the seal. Install the lower half of the Crankshaft Seal to the bearing cap, again using the installation tool for protection, ensuring the seal is firmly seated before withdrawing the tool. Smear a bit of sealant to the bearing cap areas adjacent to the seal ends, then install the bearing cap with the seal and torque the attaching bolts to about 10 to 12 ft-lb. Tap the end of the crankshaft first rearward, then forward to align the thrust surfaces, retorque the bearing cap bolts to the proper specification, and finally install the oil pump and oil pan.

Carefully lower the crankshaft to avoid damaging the bearing surfaces.

Begin by removing the engine drive belts for each accessory.

Smear a bit of sealant to the bearing cap areas adjacent to the seal ends.

For these engines, soak new neoprene side seals in kerosene for five minutes and place them in the grooves on the bearing cap. Ensure they are not cut to fit. Apply a sealer to the surface of the bearing cap that mates with the block around the seal groove. Then, reverse the removal steps to install the cap and oil pan.

Carefully pry the seal out of the cover using a seal removal tool or a large screwdriver, taking care not to distort the cover or scratch the seal bore.

Press the new seal into place using a special tool available at most auto parts stores, ensuring the seal lip faces toward the front of the engine. If the special tool is unavailable, carefully work the seal lip over the end of the crankshaft and tap the seal in with a hammer and punch until it is seated in the bore.

Inspect the rear main bearing cap and engine block mating surfaces, as well as the seal grooves, for any defects. Remove any defects with a fine file or deburring tool.

Yes, the front crankshaft oil seal can be replaced with the timing gear cover in place, but it may be easier to remove the cover first due to limited space.

The main bearing caps must be reinstalled in their original positions.

Tap the end of the crankshaft first rearward, then forward to line up the thrust surfaces, and retorque the bearing cap bolts to the proper specification.

Drive in the new shedder using a punch, ensuring to stake it in place in at least three locations.

The remaining seal half is then installed in the rear main bearing cap, also ensuring proper seating.

Lubricate the cap bolts and install them without tightening. Use a hammer and a block of wood to tap the shaft back and forth for alignment of the center main bearing, holding the crankshaft to the front while tightening the No. 3 cap bolts, followed by the remaining cap bolts.

Torque all main bearing cap attaching bolts to the proper specification, except for the number 5 (L4) or number 3 (V6) main bearing cap, which should be torqued to about 10 to 12 ft-lb initially.

Detach the bolts securing the crank pulley to the hub and lift it out.

Clean the seal bore and crankshaft sealing surface thoroughly, then inspect the crankshaft for any scratches, burrs, or nicks that could damage the seal lip and cause oil leaks.

Apply a thin layer of clean multipurpose grease.

Install the new seal with the helical lip toward the rear of the engine, driving it into place with a special tool or an appropriately sized socket, or a flat block of wood if there is enough room.

Begin by removing the oil pan and oil pump, followed by the rear main bearing cap from the engine.