GMC 24264182 Cylinder Asm,Clutch Actuator

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To disconnect the retainer clip from the clutch slave cylinder pushrod, ensuring the Clutch Slave Cylinder is not damaged when the clutch pedal is depressed, start by raising the vehicle and securely supporting it on jackstands. For 1994 and 1995 models, disconnect the hydraulic line from the Clutch Slave Cylinder by removing the cotter pin and pulling the line straight off its fitting. Then, remove the two Clutch Slave Cylinder mounting nuts and detach the Clutch Slave Cylinder. Install the Clutch Slave Cylinder on the clutch housing, ensuring the pushrod is seated in the release lever pocket. Connect the hydraulic line to the Clutch Slave Cylinder and secure it with a new cotter pin. For 1996 and later models, removal involves removing the transmission and the two Clutch Slave Cylinder retaining bolts. Slide the Clutch Slave Cylinder off the transmission input shaft and inspect the clutch disc and pressure plate assembly while the transmission is removed. Replace as necessary. Clean off the transmission input shaft and coat it with multi-purpose grease. Slide the new Clutch Slave Cylinder onto the input shaft, install the retaining bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque. Finally, install the transmission, fill the clutch fluid reservoir with the recommended fluid, bleed the clutch hydraulic system, and lower the vehicle by removing the jackstands.

This overhaul can only be done on models of 1992 and older, as post-1993 models do not have rebuildable Clutch Slave Cylinders and require new assemblies to be installed. Concentric slave cylinder is located inside the transmission bellhousing, with bleeder valve accessible externally on the bellhousing for these vehicles introduced from 1996 onwards. However, any repair work or replacement will necessitate removing the transmission from the vehicle. Prior to undertaking this operation, it is advisable to approach local parts stores and dealer service departments to find out whether they have rebuild kits or new Clutch Slave Cylinders before deciding between rebuilding or replacing based on parts availability and cost factors. Inspection of bore extensively is recommended if the cylinder is rebuilt. Disconnecting negative battery cable initiates removal procedure. Lift vehicle off ground, place on jackstands safely. To avoid damage to nut use a flare-nut wrench when disconnecting hydraulic line from Clutch Slave Cylinder of model years 1988 through 1992 and be prepared for some fluid spillage. Remove two mounting nuts holding Clutch Slave Cylinder in place and detach it next. Detach master cylinder from clutch pedal/firewall similar to what was explained in Section 3 for model years 1993 through 1995 then remove hydraulic line brackets; loosen up Clutch Slave Cylinder mounting nuts so that you can withdraw entire assembly out of vehicle .Use a special tool to unhook quick-connect fitting from resleeve in case of model year 1996 upwards followed by subsequent removal of transmission.Pry out Clutch Slave Cylinder mounting bolts withdrawing from other end both bearing and input shaft including separating bearing away from Clutch Slave Cylinder.To perform an overhaul follow these steps: telescopically remove pushrod boot snap-ring.Tap block beneath cylinder,pushing piston seal outand spring.Take good care while inspecting bore checking deep scratches score marks or ridges as bore must feel smooth enough.Abrasive surfaces demand replacement with a newer model.Accessories included in rebuild kit should be used to assemble the Clutch Slave Cylinder, with adequate amount of fresh brake fluid being also introduced for lubrication and proper positioning of the seal and spring to be taken into account.In terms of 1988 through 1992 models, fit Clutch Slave Cylinder into clutch housing ensuring that pushrod is properly positioned within release fork pocket.Attach hydraulic line to Clutch Slave Cylinder tightening fitting followed by filling clutch fluid reservoir with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid and bleeding system.Assemble the entire assembly from the top including attaching and leaving plastic retaining strap on pushrod attached as it will break upon depressing clutch pedal.Pushrod must sit well in release fork pocket; tighten mounting bolts accordingly.Master cylinder and hydraulic line brackets are installed next. It is important to note that this system comes pre-filled and pre-bled by the factory so there is no need for any further bleeding. In relation to 1996 onwards models, connect release bearing onto Clutch Slave Cylinder before attaching latter into transmission while aligning two fittings with holes on transmission case.Fix the transmission back in place then connect hydraulic line quick-connect fitting onto Clutch Slave Cylinder making sure it snaps securely.Seal off by carrying out bleeding exercise after which car should be immediately lowered while reconnecting negative battery cable.

Before commencing the procedure, it is advisable to contact local parts stores and dealer service departments to inquire about acquiring a rebuild kit or a new release cylinder, as parts availability and cost considerations may influence the decision between rebuilding or replacing the cylinder.

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