GM 12482063 Seal Kit,Intake Valve Stem Oil

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To replace the Valve Stem Oil Seals, start by removing the valve cover(s) from the cylinder head(s), and if replacing all seals, remove all spark plugs too. If replacing all seals, go according to firing order (1-6-5-4-3-2) and begin with cylinder number 1 i.e. skip 120 degrees clockwise for each cylinder. Position the piston in that selected cylinder at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke by rotating the crankshaft. For that target cylinder head, remove all rocker arms, pushrods, and support bars. Screw an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach a compressed air source which applies approximately 90 to 100 psi of pressure to retain valves position. Shop rags should be inserted into the holes on top of the cylinder heads to prevent foreign objects from entering into the engine. A removal tool such as a valve spring compressor can help compress retainers together with valve springs thus allowing keepers' elimination. Old Valve Stem Oil Seal is then taken out after getting rid of spring retainer or rotator together with its assembly. Keep the rubber band or tape on hand for holding down the valve stem so that it does not fall out when releasing air pressure later on. While installing, ensure there is no damage on valve stem but it moves freely in guide without sticking inside it. Air pressure should be reapplied to hold down the valve while taking off tape or rubber bands. After applying some engine oil for lubrication purposes around the stem ends of valves install new seals after tapping them gently with a deep socket or tool used for installation of a seal into place, care being taken not to twist or cock these seals in any way at this point also check if garter spring is properly positioned around the top of each seal before proceeding further with the installation process of valve spring and damper if applicable closely-wound spring coils facing towards cylinder head while securing either rotator or retainer for valve spring. Disconnect the air hose, remove the adapter from the spark plug hole, and repeat the process for the remaining cylinders, aligning each piston with TDC on the compression stroke. Finally, reinstall the rocker arms, support bars, and pushrods, followed by the valve cover(s), spark plug(s), and wires, and start and run the engine, checking for any oil leaks or unusual noises from the valve cover area.

To replace the Valve Stem Oil Seals, start by removing the valve cover(s) from the cylinder head(s), and if replacing all seals, remove all spark plugs too. If replacing all seals, go according to firing order (1-6-5-4-3-2) and begin with cylinder number 1 i.e. skip 120 degrees clockwise for each cylinder. Position the piston in that selected cylinder at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke by rotating the crankshaft. For that target cylinder head, remove all rocker arms, pushrods, and support bars. Screw an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach a compressed air source which applies approximately 90 to 100 psi of pressure to retain valves position. Shop rags should be inserted into the holes on top of the cylinder heads to prevent foreign objects from entering into the engine. A removal tool such as a valve spring compressor can help compress retainers together with valve springs thus allowing keepers' elimination. Old Valve Stem Oil Seal is then taken out after getting rid of spring retainer or rotator together with its assembly. Keep the rubber band or tape on hand for holding down the valve stem so that it does not fall out when releasing air pressure later on. While installing, ensure there is no damage on valve stem but it moves freely in guide without sticking inside it. Air pressure should be reapplied to hold down the valve while taking off tape or rubber bands. After applying some engine oil for lubrication purposes around the stem ends of valves install new seals after tapping them gently with a deep socket or tool used for installation of a seal into place, care being taken not to twist or cock these seals in any way at this point also check if garter spring is properly positioned around the top of each seal before proceeding further with the installation process of valve spring and damper if applicable closely-wound spring coils facing towards cylinder head while securing either rotator or retainer for valve spring. Disconnect the air hose, remove the adapter from the spark plug hole, and repeat the process for the remaining cylinders, aligning each piston with TDC on the compression stroke. Finally, reinstall the rocker arms, support bars, and pushrods, followed by the valve cover(s), spark plug(s), and wires, and start and run the engine, checking for any oil leaks or unusual noises from the valve cover area.

To replace the Valve Stem Oil Seals, start by removing the valve cover(s) from the cylinder head(s), and if replacing all seals, remove all spark plugs too. If replacing all seals, go according to firing order (1-6-5-4-3-2) and begin with cylinder number 1 i.e. skip 120 degrees clockwise for each cylinder. Position the piston in that selected cylinder at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke by rotating the crankshaft. For that target cylinder head, remove all rocker arms, pushrods, and support bars. Screw an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach a compressed air source which applies approximately 90 to 100 psi of pressure to retain valves position. Shop rags should be inserted into the holes on top of the cylinder heads to prevent foreign objects from entering into the engine. A removal tool such as a valve spring compressor can help compress retainers together with valve springs thus allowing keepers' elimination. Old Valve Stem Oil Seal is then taken out after getting rid of spring retainer or rotator together with its assembly. Keep the rubber band or tape on hand for holding down the valve stem so that it does not fall out when releasing air pressure later on. While installing, ensure there is no damage on valve stem but it moves freely in guide without sticking inside it. Air pressure should be reapplied to hold down the valve while taking off tape or rubber bands. After applying some engine oil for lubrication purposes around the stem ends of valves install new seals after tapping them gently with a deep socket or tool used for installation of a seal into place, care being taken not to twist or cock these seals in any way at this point also check if garter spring is properly positioned around the top of each seal before proceeding further with the installation process of valve spring and damper if applicable closely-wound spring coils facing towards cylinder head while securing either rotator or retainer for valve spring. Disconnect the air hose, remove the adapter from the spark plug hole, and repeat the process for the remaining cylinders, aligning each piston with TDC on the compression stroke. Finally, reinstall the rocker arms, support bars, and pushrods, followed by the valve cover(s), spark plug(s), and wires, and start and run the engine, checking for any oil leaks or unusual noises from the valve cover area.

To replace the Valve Stem Oil Seals, start by removing the valve cover(s) from the cylinder head(s), and if replacing all seals, remove all spark plugs too. If replacing all seals, go according to firing order (1-6-5-4-3-2) and begin with cylinder number 1 i.e. skip 120 degrees clockwise for each cylinder. Position the piston in that selected cylinder at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke by rotating the crankshaft. For that target cylinder head, remove all rocker arms, pushrods, and support bars. Screw an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach a compressed air source which applies approximately 90 to 100 psi of pressure to retain valves position. Shop rags should be inserted into the holes on top of the cylinder heads to prevent foreign objects from entering into the engine. A removal tool such as a valve spring compressor can help compress retainers together with valve springs thus allowing keepers' elimination. Old Valve Stem Oil Seal is then taken out after getting rid of spring retainer or rotator together with its assembly. Keep the rubber band or tape on hand for holding down the valve stem so that it does not fall out when releasing air pressure later on. While installing, ensure there is no damage on valve stem but it moves freely in guide without sticking inside it. Air pressure should be reapplied to hold down the valve while taking off tape or rubber bands. After applying some engine oil for lubrication purposes around the stem ends of valves install new seals after tapping them gently with a deep socket or tool used for installation of a seal into place, care being taken not to twist or cock these seals in any way at this point also check if garter spring is properly positioned around the top of each seal before proceeding further with the installation process of valve spring and damper if applicable closely-wound spring coils facing towards cylinder head while securing either rotator or retainer for valve spring. Disconnect the air hose, remove the adapter from the spark plug hole, and repeat the process for the remaining cylinders, aligning each piston with TDC on the compression stroke. Finally, reinstall the rocker arms, support bars, and pushrods, followed by the valve cover(s), spark plug(s), and wires, and start and run the engine, checking for any oil leaks or unusual noises from the valve cover area.

Valve springs and valve stem seals can be thereby changed without removing the cylinder head, these two components need two special tools and a compressed air supply. Start with the spark plugs and the valve covers, turn the crankshaft until the #1 piston is on the top in the compression stroke. Take off the rocker arms of the number 1 piston, screw an adapter in the spark plug hole and attach an airline from the source of compressed air. Put compressed air to the cylinder to close the valves and then use the shop rags to block the cylinder head holes around the valves to avoid dropping of the parts and tools in the engine. They should be tapped lightly with the palm of your hand to break the seal and then they require the use of valve spring compressor to compress the spring while the keepers can be removed by using small needle-nose pliers or by use of magnet. Take out the valve spring and retainer using strictly the pressure of air to keep the valve shut in order to prevent damaging it. Take out the old valve stem seals - take note that the intake and exhaust seals differ, secure a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem to prevent it from falling into the combustion chamber when you release the air pressure. Although this valve is relatively simple, there are several things you have to look at the valve stem, which should not bind in the guide. Reduce air pressure to hold the valve closed, then install the new valve stem seals up to the specified thickness, without clamping them up against their topped guide. Place the spring and retainer on the valve, press the assembly just enough to fit the keepers into place and drop a small quantity of grease if one is needed to hold the keepers into place. Pull the air hose off and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole and then follow the same procedure for all the rest of the cylinders, always sticking to the firing order and basically going through all of the puffs while bringing each of the pistons to the TDC on the compression stroke. Last, bolt on the rocker arm assemblies and the valve covers and crank the engine, inspecting for mainative oil leakage and other odd noises and should let the engine run for at least five minutes at idle and then bring up to its high end rpms.

Valve spring and faulty valve stem seal can be easily replaced without undressing of the cylinder head - two special tools and compressed air are needed in average. The first step can be made by disconnecting the spark plugs and the valve covers and with the help of the crankshaft to adjust the position of the first piston at the top dead center of the compression stroke. Turn the rocker arms of the number one piston removing the spark plug and thread the adapter into the hole, you will then connect the air hose to a compressed air source. With the use of the cylinder compression gauge, the Schrader valve, needs to be removed from the fitting, and the auto parts stores commonly provide the air hose adapter. Spray compressed air into the cylinder to 'lock' the valves into position, and wedge shop rags into the cylinder head holes surrounding the valves in order to prevent loose items from falling into the vehicle's engine. Cover the retainer with your hand and gently tap on top of the retainer to break the seal and then place the valve spring compressor on the spring then you use the small needle nose pliers or magnet to remove the keepers. Extract the valve spring and retainer and realise that if the valve cannot be retained with air pressure, then the cylinder head would have to be unbolted for fixing. Pull the old valve stem seals out with needle-nose pliers; you may want to wind a rubber band or that type of auto tape around the top of the valve stem to hold the stem from falling and look at the stem for any signs of damage. Reapply some pressure to retain the valve, and tighten it accordingly; new valve stem seal needs to be fitted with the help of appropriate one for intake as well as the exhaust valves, up to the described depth. Place the spring and retainer, slightly preload the valve spring assembly so that the keepers can be placed in and a little grease put to hold the keepers in place. Remove the air hose and pull the adapter out from the spark plug hole, then proceed on other cylinders making certain that the piston reaches the top dead center on the compression stroke before applying air pressure. Last of all, the rocker arm assemblies and valve covers are replaced, then start the engine and check whether there is oil leakage around the engine and unusual sound during its initial running and allow the engine to run for not less than five minutes before putting it into further operation.

Remove the old valve stem seals and wrap a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem to prevent it from falling into the combustion chamber.

Repeat the procedure on the remaining cylinders, then reinstall the rocker arm assemblies, camshafts, timing chains, and valve covers.

Begin by removing the spark plugs and valve covers.

Remove the pressure from the spring tool to ensure the keepers are seated, disconnect the air hose, and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole.

Reinstall the rocker arm assemblies and valve covers.

Broken valve springs and defective valve stem seats can be replaced without removing the cylinder head.

Stuff shop rags into the cylinder head holes around the valves.

Disconnect the air hose, remove the adapter from the spark plug hole, and repeat the process for the remaining cylinders, aligning each piston with TDC on the compression stroke.

Thread an adapter into the spark plug hole and connect an air hose from a compressed air source.

After installing the valve stem seals in one cylinder, proceed to install the valve spring and damper if equipped, with the closely-wound spring coils facing the cylinder head, and secure the valve spring retainer or rotator.

Reapply air pressure to retain the valve in the closed position.