GM 12482062 Seal Kit,Exhaust Valve Stem Oil

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Valve spray and valve stem seal are worn and may require replacement and can be done without the removal of the cylinder head; it requires two special tools and compressed air. First of all, get rid of spark plugs, plenum, intake manifold, valve covers, timing chains, camshafts, and rocker arms. Insert an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach an air hose from an air compressor; often such equipment is available in auto part stores. Coat the cylinder and the valves with compressed air in a way that they are locked in place. Mold the top of each valve spring retainer sufficiently to separate the valve keeper from the spring retainer, then compress the spring with a valve-spring compressor in order to remove the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet. The valve spring and retainer must be taken off while leaving pressure of air as this holds the valve shut to avoid being injured. Take out the old valve stem seals, making sure to differentiate the differences, between the intake and the exhaust, put a rubber band or some tape around the tip of the valve stem in order to keep the spring from dropping into the combustion chamber before you actually release the air pressure. There is also a possibility that the handle bounds as it threads in the stem, specifically in the region covered by the hand wheel; this requires the removal of the head for adjustment. Apply pressure to keep the valve closed and fix new valve stem seals but be careful not to fit intake and exhaust stem seals. Put the spring and retainer into position over the valve, tighten the assembly enough to seat and reinstall the keepers, also put a small squirt of grease to sort out the keepers if required. Pull off the pressure from the spring tool, and make sure that the keepers are properly in place, and pull off the air hose and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole. Perform the same to other cylinders, after which the rocker arm assemblies, camshafts, timing chains, and valve covers should be replaced. Switch the engine to 'on' and listen for oil dripping and any unusual noises and let the engine run for five to 10 minutes before a close inspection.

Well-worn valve springs and valve stem seats that do not seat properly can be repaired with the head off and often do not need to be removed, but require two special tools and compressed-air source. Start by pulling out the spark plug and the valve cover, crank the engine in order to align the number one piston on the compression stroke. Then, you have to take out the rocker arms which are used for the number one cylinder and fit an adapter to the spark plug hole and attach a hose to it for an air compressor from a compressed air supply. Use compressed air to close the valves and make them stay in position; use shop rags to block all the spaces of the cylinder head round the valves to ensure that no part and tool fall in the engine. Simply strike lightly on top of the valve spring retainer to remove the check between the valve keeper and the spring retainer, then make use of a valve spring compressor to compress the spring and then remove the keeper using a small needle nose pliers or magnet. Pull out the valve spring and the retainer by pulling carefully to prevent the valve from being struck by the falling spring and bending. Take off the old valve stem seals and notice that the intake is always different from the exhaust, and put a rubber band or a piece of tape around the top of the valve stem so that it does not fall into the combustion chamber when you release the air pressure. Check the condition of the valve stem , it should not stick in the guide. Apply air pressure to keep the valve shut; replace the valve stem seals, the spring and retainer. Slightly compress the valve spring assembly to fit in the keepers and use a tiny amount of grease to fix them if required. Subsequently, if the keepers are comfortably seated, shut off the line of air and take off the adapter from the surface of the spark plug. Perform same procedure on the rest of cylinders with regards to firing order sequence; then install the rocker arm assembly and the valve covers. Last, engage the engine and look for traces of oil or strange sounds and rev the engine for not less than five minutes.

Valve spring and faulty valve stem seal can be easily replaced without undressing of the cylinder head - two special tools and compressed air are needed in average. The first step can be made by disconnecting the spark plugs and the valve covers and with the help of the crankshaft to adjust the position of the first piston at the top dead center of the compression stroke. Turn the rocker arms of the number one piston removing the spark plug and thread the adapter into the hole, you will then connect the air hose to a compressed air source. With the use of the cylinder compression gauge, the Schrader valve, needs to be removed from the fitting, and the auto parts stores commonly provide the air hose adapter. Spray compressed air into the cylinder to 'lock' the valves into position, and wedge shop rags into the cylinder head holes surrounding the valves in order to prevent loose items from falling into the vehicle's engine. Cover the retainer with your hand and gently tap on top of the retainer to break the seal and then place the valve spring compressor on the spring then you use the small needle nose pliers or magnet to remove the keepers. Extract the valve spring and retainer and realise that if the valve cannot be retained with air pressure, then the cylinder head would have to be unbolted for fixing. Pull the old valve stem seals out with needle-nose pliers; you may want to wind a rubber band or that type of auto tape around the top of the valve stem to hold the stem from falling and look at the stem for any signs of damage. Reapply some pressure to retain the valve, and tighten it accordingly; new valve stem seal needs to be fitted with the help of appropriate one for intake as well as the exhaust valves, up to the described depth. Place the spring and retainer, slightly preload the valve spring assembly so that the keepers can be placed in and a little grease put to hold the keepers in place. Remove the air hose and pull the adapter out from the spark plug hole, then proceed on other cylinders making certain that the piston reaches the top dead center on the compression stroke before applying air pressure. Last of all, the rocker arm assemblies and valve covers are replaced, then start the engine and check whether there is oil leakage around the engine and unusual sound during its initial running and allow the engine to run for not less than five minutes before putting it into further operation.

Both valve springs and valve stem seals can be changed without even having to uninstall the cylinder head; the procedure requires two tools, and a source of compressed air. Start with the spark plugs and the valve covers, proceed and turn the crankshaft until the first piston is at the top on the compression stroke. Take off the rocker arms for the number 1 piston, screw in an adapter into the spark plug hole and join a hose to an air compressor. Expel compressed air in the inside of the cylinder lid in order that the valves be closed that would continue holding these in position and stuff shop rags into the holes found on the head of the cylinder so as to avoid loss of parts and tools into the engine. Hammer on the top of each valve spring retainer lightly to burst the seal and remove the outer keepers using a valve-spring compressor, a magnet or small needle-nose pliers while compressing the spring. If air pressure is for some reason unable to keep the valve closed the face of the valve or seat can become badly worn and the cylinder head is usually then removed for reconditioning. Pop off the old valve stem seals, in EN intake and EXHAUST, and around the top of the valve stem wrap a rubber band put some tape so the stem will not fall into the combustion chamber before cutting the air pressure off. Check valve stem for wear and tear, if bent it will not move freely in the guide and the head has to be taken off for straightening. Again apply the air pressure to lock it in the closed position and then fit the new valve stem seals to the required depth and do not hamper their installation by pushing against the top of the guide. Place the spring and retainer over the valve, crush the valve spring assembly to fit the keepers on the valve stem groove and use a small amount of grease if required to do so. Release pressure inside the spring tool and make sure that the keepers are fitted properly; then detach the air hose and the remove the adapter from the spark plug hole. Perform the said process for the rest of the cylinders; carefully turning the engine to have each piston at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke then regulating air pressure. Last of all, replace the rocker arm assemblies along with the valve covers, start the engine and examine the amount of oil dripping and also any sort of odd noises to be produced by the engine which should be allowed to idle for not less than five minutes then race the engine.

To replace the Valve Stem Oil Seals, start by removing the valve cover(s) from the cylinder head(s), and if replacing all seals, remove all spark plugs too. If replacing all seals, go according to firing order (1-6-5-4-3-2) and begin with cylinder number 1 i.e. skip 120 degrees clockwise for each cylinder. Position the piston in that selected cylinder at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke by rotating the crankshaft. For that target cylinder head, remove all rocker arms, pushrods, and support bars. Screw an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach a compressed air source which applies approximately 90 to 100 psi of pressure to retain valves position. Shop rags should be inserted into the holes on top of the cylinder heads to prevent foreign objects from entering into the engine. A removal tool such as a valve spring compressor can help compress retainers together with valve springs thus allowing keepers' elimination. Old Valve Stem Oil Seal is then taken out after getting rid of spring retainer or rotator together with its assembly. Keep the rubber band or tape on hand for holding down the valve stem so that it does not fall out when releasing air pressure later on. While installing, ensure there is no damage on valve stem but it moves freely in guide without sticking inside it. Air pressure should be reapplied to hold down the valve while taking off tape or rubber bands. After applying some engine oil for lubrication purposes around the stem ends of valves install new seals after tapping them gently with a deep socket or tool used for installation of a seal into place, care being taken not to twist or cock these seals in any way at this point also check if garter spring is properly positioned around the top of each seal before proceeding further with the installation process of valve spring and damper if applicable closely-wound spring coils facing towards cylinder head while securing either rotator or retainer for valve spring. Disconnect the air hose, remove the adapter from the spark plug hole, and repeat the process for the remaining cylinders, aligning each piston with TDC on the compression stroke. Finally, reinstall the rocker arms, support bars, and pushrods, followed by the valve cover(s), spark plug(s), and wires, and start and run the engine, checking for any oil leaks or unusual noises from the valve cover area.

Use a valve-spring compressor to compress the spring and remove the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet.

Utilize a valve spring compressor to compress the valve spring and retainer, allowing the removal of the keepers.

Broken valve springs and defective valve stem seals can be replaced without removing the cylinder head.

Use a valve-spring compressor to compress the spring and remove the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet.

Rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke.

Reapply air pressure to retain the valve.

Ensure that air pressure retains the valve in the closed position to avoid damage.

Thread an adapter into the spark plug hole and connect it to a compressed air source, applying 90 to 100 psi of pressure to secure the valves in place.

First, remove the valve cover(s) from the cylinder head(s), and if you're replacing all seals, remove all spark plugs as well.

Disconnect the air hose, remove the adapter from the spark plug hole, and repeat the process for the remaining cylinders, aligning each piston with TDC on the compression stroke.

Identify the cylinder with the defective component, or if replacing all seals, start with cylinder number 1 following the firing order sequence (1-6-5-4-3-2) with each cylinder 120 degrees clockwise apart.

Typically, two special tools and a compressed air source are required.