Buick 10496871 Starter Motor, Remanufactured

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To remove and install the starter, begin by disconnecting the negative battery cable and raising the car on jackstands. Remove any starter braces or shields in the way, then remove the starter motor-to-engine bolts and allow the starter to drop down. Disconnect the solenoid wires and battery cable before removing the starter. To replace the solenoid, remove the starter from the vehicle and remove the screw and washer from the motor connector strap terminal. Remove the screws retaining the solenoid housing to the end frame assembly and twist the solenoid clockwise to remove the flange key from the keyway slot. Remove the solenoid assembly and install the new one by positioning the solenoid body on the drive housing and turning it counterclockwise to engage the flange key in the keyway slot. Install the screws to retain the solenoid housing to the end frame. For an overhaul, start by removing the starter from the vehicle and disconnecting the field coil straps from the solenoid. Remove the through-bolts to separate the commutator end frame, field frame assembly, drive housing, and armature assembly. On diesel starters, remove the insulator from the end frame and the shift lever pivot bolt. On 25 MT diesel starters, remove the center bearing screws and the drive gear housing from the armature shaft. Slide off the 2-piece thrust collar from the armature shaft and use a piece of pipe or socket to drive the retainer toward the snapring. Remove the snapring with pliers and slide off the retainer and starter drive. To reinstall, lubricate the armature shaft and install the starter drive and retainer. Place the snapring on the shaft and tap it into place. Slide the retainer and thrust collar onto the shaft and squeeze them together with pliers. Lubricate the drive housing bushing and engage the shift lever yoke with the clutch. Install the drive assembly into the drive gear housing and reassemble the remaining components. For brush replacement, disconnect the field coil from the motor solenoid terminal and remove the starter through bolts. Remove the commutator end frame and washer, then remove the field frame and armature assembly from the drive housing. Remove the brush holder pivot pin, brush springs, and brushes. Install the new brushes and reassemble the components in reverse order.

If the starter motor does not turn at all when the switch is operated, check the shift lever (automatic transmission) or clutch pedal (manual transmission). Ensure the battery is charged and all cables are secure. If the motor spins but the engine is not cranked, the starter motor may need to be disassembled. If the solenoid clicks but the motor does not operate, there may be an issue with the solenoid contacts or the motor itself. If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard, the solenoid or circuit may be defective. To check the solenoid, connect a jumper lead between the battery(+) and the S terminal. If the starter motor works, the solenoid is fine. If not, remove the starter/solenoid assembly for testing and repair. If the starter motor cranks the engine slowly, check the battery, terminal connections, and engine condition. Use a voltmeter to check the starter motor terminal while actuating the ignition switch. A reading of 9 volts or more at normal cranking speed is normal. If the reading is lower and the cranking speed is slow, the solenoid contacts may be burned.

If the starter does not rotate when the switch is operated, it should be checked that the speed selector lever is set to 'N' or 'P' if it is an automatic transmission, and that the front seat belts are connected and that clutch pedal, if any, should be pressed down. Check that the battery is well charged, as well as all cables connected to the battery and starter solenoid terminals. If the starter spins and the engine does not crank, the over running clutch in the starter may be slipping, and, in this case, the starter assembly has to be removed and dismantled. If the starter will not turn around and if a loud 'click' is heard to have come from the solenoid plunger, then most probably the problem is with the main solenoid contact or the starter. If no sound is produced in the solenoid plunger there is tendency that it has a defect or the circuit is opened. The solenoid shall be tested through joining a jumper leading between the solenoid terminal and the battery positive terminal holding the purple cable; if the starter runs successfully, then the solenoid is fine therefore the problem is probably with the switch ignition or neutral start or the wiring of the switch ignition or neutral start. If the starter will still not turn on then have the starter/solenoid assembly pulled out for examination and repair if necessary. If the starter turns the engine slowly, then the battery may be dead, or the connections loose or the engine oil could be of the wrong grade, or there could be some other problems with the engine. Warming up the engine to the normal operating temperature, switch off the engine and to eliminate the firing during cranking, remove the coil to distributor LT wire. Attach one probe of voltmeter to the starter terminal of the solenoid the other probe to a good ground point, turn on the ignition switch and take reading as soon as a steady readings are obtained without engaging the starter for more that 30 seconds. If the reading is 9 volts or more at normal cranking speed, the battery is in good condition/ if the above reading is 9 volts or more, but cranking speed is slow, it is the starter. If its having a below 9 volts reading and if cranking speed is bad then there is chance of solenoid contacts to get replaced.

For conventional types, undercut the insulation by 1/32 inch using an old hacksaw blade, ensuring the undercut is the full width of the insulation and the groove is square at the bottom.

Position the field frame over the armature and apply sealing compound between the frame and the solenoid case. Carefully position the field frame against the drive housing to avoid damaging the brushes.

Clean all components and replace any obviously worn parts.

It is important to temporarily replace each of the securing nuts to the terminals to prevent damage to the stubs due to various thread types.

Lubricate the bushing in the commutator end-frame with silicone oil, place the leather brake washer on the armature shaft, and slide the commutator end-frame onto the shaft.

If no sound is heard from the solenoid plunger, the solenoid may be defective or the circuit could be open.

It is important to temporarily replace each of the securing nuts to the terminals to prevent damage to the stubs due to various thread types.

Separate the starter from the engine.