GM 10243070 Engine Crankshaft

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The endplay should be checked before removing the crankshaft. With the stem aligned with the crankshaft, a dial indicator needs to be set up so that it touches one of the throw arms. After pushing the crankshaft completely backward, zero the dial indicator. Then pry the crankshaft as far forward as possible and read on dial indicator. This movement determines how much endplay is. If it exceeds what's prescribed, examine the thrust surfaces on the crankshafts for wear. If no evidence of wear exists, new main bearings would correct this clearance problem. In case you do not have a dial indicator, you can use feeler gauges instead. When prying or pushing on it with care, make sure to move the crankshaft until it reaches at extreme front of engine block. The clearance between the front face of thrust main bearing and the crankshaft should be measured using feeler gauges. Do these bearing caps have any marks indicating their locations. It is from front to rear numbering them consecutively. If there are no such marks they could be numbered by number stamping dies or even center punch in case they are not cast-in top of the main bearing caps showing any arrow out pointing to front side of engine block. One-quarter turn at a time each should be loosened every one of main bearing cap bolts until they can easily be taken out by plain hand. Thus each cap should then be carefully tapped using soft-faced hammer and separated from engine block when necessary; bolts could remove caps if needed. Well, as long as you don't lose them along with corresponding bearing caps you don't need to worry about dropping those inserts. Upon lifting it up cautiously from engine block assisted by someone else due its weighty nature, the best way could involve having an assistant around in order for ease lifting of this entire crankshaft. The respective locations where each cap belongs can easily guided by looking at them while holding bearing inserts within engine block and main bearing caps are returned by tightening their bolts with fingers only.

Crankshaft and main bearings should be removed only with the engine taken out of the car and then the engine must be fully dismantled. It is necessary to insure ourselves that the original numbers or letters on the 5 main bearing caps of the engine block are visible and clear; if not, small dents may be made according to the same combinations as were the connecting rods and caps to guarantee that the main bearing caps are put on their proper places. Subsequently, each of the main bearing cap together with its bearing should be removed by lifting it off the crankshaft and all the main bearing caps and bearings must be arranged on another workspace arranged in serial fashion with relation to the engine block. The crankshaft should then be carefully lifted off the engine block in order not to cause any damage. The oil seal consists of two halves which have to be taken out, next, the main bearings have to be taken out from both the cylinder block and the caps, but it is necessary to sort them according to their positions. Last but not least, called 'Crankshaft gear removal tool or Puller,' the gear at the front of the crankshaft can be effortlessly removed.

The endplay should be checked before removing the crankshaft. With the stem aligned with the crankshaft, a dial indicator needs to be set up so that it touches one of the throw arms. After pushing the crankshaft completely backward, zero the dial indicator. Then pry the crankshaft as far forward as possible and read on dial indicator. This movement determines how much endplay is. If it exceeds what's prescribed, examine the thrust surfaces on the crankshafts for wear. If no evidence of wear exists, new main bearings would correct this clearance problem. In case you do not have a dial indicator, you can use feeler gauges instead. When prying or pushing on it with care, make sure to move the crankshaft until it reaches at extreme front of engine block. The clearance between the front face of thrust main bearing and the crankshaft should be measured using feeler gauges. Do these bearing caps have any marks indicating their locations. It is from front to rear numbering them consecutively. If there are no such marks they could be numbered by number stamping dies or even center punch in case they are not cast-in top of the main bearing caps showing any arrow out pointing to front side of engine block. One-quarter turn at a time each should be loosened every one of main bearing cap bolts until they can easily be taken out by plain hand. Thus each cap should then be carefully tapped using soft-faced hammer and separated from engine block when necessary; bolts could remove caps if needed. Well, as long as you don't lose them along with corresponding bearing caps you don't need to worry about dropping those inserts. Upon lifting it up cautiously from engine block assisted by someone else due its weighty nature, the best way could involve having an assistant around in order for ease lifting of this entire crankshaft. The respective locations where each cap belongs can easily guided by looking at them while holding bearing inserts within engine block and main bearing caps are returned by tightening their bolts with fingers only.

Crankshaft installation is normally one of the first steps in the reassembly of an engine, if the engine block and crankshaft have been washed down, envisaged and restored. Place the engine in a way that the bottom is upward, then, after removing the main bearing cap bolts, take off the caps and place them in the correct orientation for reassembly. If old bearing inserts have been left in the connecting rods, it is necessary to take them out and, with a clean and non-adhesive material, such as a lint-free cloth, clean the main bearing surfaces. Remove and clean the back sides of new main bearing inserts, then install one half of them to each main bearing saddle in the block and make sure the tabs and oil holes locating correctly without use of lubrication. The flanged thrust bearing is required to be fitted in the suitable cap and saddle for the V6 and V8 engines. Scrub the bearing faces and the crankshaft's main bearing journals using cleaning alcohol and look out for dirt in oil holes. Place crankshaft in the correct position with counterweights sideways and then, measure the main bearing oil clearance using Plastigage, when placing it be sure it is parallel to the journal axis and does not block oil holes. Fit the caps in the positions provided and screw the bolts in stages in the center main, then each of the other main bearing caps without rotating the crankshaft. Finally, after the taking off of the caps, and after observing that the crushed Plastigage width corresponded with the scale, ascertain that the oil clearance is within or meets the required standard. If clearance is wrong, check the bearing insert dimensions and also the condition of the surfaces for cleanliness. All of the Plastigage must be cut away and the crankshaft pulled out, bearing surfaces must be free of Plastigage residues and coated with a light film of moly-based grease or engine assembly lube. Grease the rear main oil seal, if necessary, for some engine models, and apply the gasket sealant to the main bearing cap for some engines before laying the crankshaft back in the block. Ensure bearing faces in the caps are free of debris then applied the grease on them before placing the cap with arrow facing forward tighten the bolts to torque in three steps. Turning the crankshaft and feel whether it binds or not, and lastly the final check on the crankshaft end play the use of feeler gauge or dial indicator.

Clean the main bearing surfaces of the block and caps meticulously, keeping them free of any debris.

If the seals have worn grooves in the crankshaft journals, or if the seal journals are nicked or scratched, the new seal(s) will leak.

A short block features a cylinder block with an installed crankshaft and piston/rod assemblies, complete with new bearings and tolerances, allowing for easy attachment of existing components.

Clean the lower bearing inserts and install them in the main bearing cap assembly, ensuring proper fit without damage.

Clean the crankshaft with solvent and dry it with compressed air, if available.

Install the main bearing caps over the crankshaft and onto the cylinder block, ensuring the arrows point toward the front of the engine.

Avoid hammering the bearing into place or damaging the bearing faces, and do not use lubrication at this stage.

Scrape off any Plastigage residue and lift the crankshaft out of the cylinder block. Apply lubricant to the bearing surfaces and lay the crankshaft back in place. Apply lubricant to the bearing insert faces and clean the engine block and bearing cap mating surfaces. Apply clean engine oil to all bolt threads and tighten the main bearing cap bolts to the specified torque.

Loosen the main bearing cap bolts and remove the caps. Lift the crankshaft out of the engine, being careful due to its weight.

If a dial indicator is unavailable, use feeler gauges by prying the crankshaft to the front and slipping the gauges between the crankshaft and the thrust main bearing to measure clearance.

If the bearing inserts and journals are in good condition, do not decide to reuse the bearings until the oil clearances have been checked.