Genuine Chevrolet Metro Valve Stem Oil Seal

Engine Valve Seal
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2 Valve Stem Oil Seals found

  • Chevrolet Metro Valve Stem Oil Seal - 96059936
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    Chevrolet Metro Seal,Valve Stem Oil

    Part Number: 96059936
    $7.09 MSRP: $17.19
    You Save: $10.10 (59%)
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    Product Specifications
    • Other Name: SEAL, Engine Valve; Valve Seal
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by GM's factory warranty.
    Fits the following Vehicles:
    • 1989-2001 Chevrolet Metro | 2 DOOR, 4 DOOR, CONVERTIBLE, LSI 2 DOOR, LSI 4 DOOR, LSI CONVERTIBLE, XFI 2 DOOR | 3 Cyl 1.0L, 4 Cyl 1.3L
  • Chevrolet Metro Valve Stem Oil Seal - 91174039
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    Product Specifications
    • Other Name: SEAL, Engine Valve; Valve Seal
    • Replaces: 96051426
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by GM's factory warranty.
    Fits the following Vehicles:
    • 1992-1997 Chevrolet Metro | 2 DOOR, 4 DOOR | 3 Cyl 1.0L, 4 Cyl 1.3L

Chevrolet Metro Valve Stem Oil Seal

Each OEM Chevrolet Metro Valve Stem Oil Seal we offer is competitively priced and comes with the assurance of the manufacturer's warranty for the part. Furthermore, we guarantee the speedy delivery of your orders right to your doorstep. Our hassle-free return policy is also in place for your peace of mind.

Chevrolet Metro Valve Stem Oil Seal Parts Questions & Experts Answers

  • Q: Can broken valve springs and defective valve stem seals be replaced without removing the cylinder head on Chevrolet Metro?
    A: Valve springs break while valve stem seals go bad can easily be replaced without having to remove the cylinder head; this however, usually calls for the use of two particular tools, as well as compressed air. If compressed air is not available, one ought to make a loop of nylon rope so that the valves will not fall into the cylinder. For a Sprint the rocker arms and shafts have to be dismantled, for a Metro the Camshaft and lifters must be taken out. Take out the spark plug in the cylinder containing the troubled part, and if the repair involves all valve stem seals you have to take out all the spark plugs. Start with cylinder number one and do the work on one cylinder and then when you are done, proceed to the other one and so on. Insert an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach a hose connected to a can compressed air. Take care of movement of crank shaft ,now fix the compressed air towards the cylinder. Ideally there would be no leaks and when the air pressure is replaced the valves would be held in place if there is leakage do expect that the valve faces or seat to be compromised. In the event of lack of compressed air, position the piston just before the TDC and fill the combustion chamber with nylon rope, leaving the end exposed. Work with shop rags so that parts do not fall into the engine, and use the valve spring compressor to remove the keepers compressing the spring. Once you have successfully unwound the spring retainer and the valve spring then you will need to also pull out the guide seal. In the situation, where air pressure is unable to keep the valve closed, then it will be necessary to take the cylinder head off for further work to be carried out. You then place the rubber band or tape around the valve stem and then relieve the pressure of the bike tire. Check up the ( valve stem ) area for any signs of wear and tear and ensure that it glides freely within the guide. Apply pressure to make valve retain, check and lubricate the valve stem and put on a new guide seal. Place the spring above the valve and fit the retainer for spring; further sae the spring all the while keeping the keepers in place. Release the pressure off the spring tool and check if the keepers are in place. Remove the air hose, then take out the adapter, and replace the rocker arms and shafts or lifters and the camshaft. Last but not the least, fix the spark plugs, fix the wires, place the valve cover and start the engine to look for oil leaks and other strange noises.

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