Genuine Chevrolet El Camino Alternator

Chevrolet El Camino Alternator Parts Questions & Experts Answers

• GENERATOR
  1105364
  Q: Should home mechanics consider replacing a faulty alternator unit instead of attempting to disassemble and test its components on Chevrolet El Camino?

  A: Because of how sensitive and extensive some of the activities involved in disassembling and testing the various alternator parts are, it may be prudent for the ordinary car owner to opt for a new of a rebuilt unit. In case an overhaul is selected, make sure you have replacement parts on hand before going to that option. Start off by taking out the alternator and the pulley before immobilizing the alternator and placing the mounting flange in a vice under pressure. The four through-bolts allow easy dismantling of the slip-ring and end frame together with the stator from the drive-end and rotor assembly using a screwdriver levering action while noting the positions of corresponding parts before removal for ease of reassembly. Further, unscrew the nuts fastening the stator lead and pull the stator away from the end frame, undo the screws to open the brush holder assembly, and remove the heat sink after unplugging the BAT and GAD terminals and a screw. Further strip by disconnecting the rectifier bridge, screw of securing, BAT terminal screw the lead of the capacitor, and finally, remove the rectifier bridge of the end frame. Loosen the hex screws which secures the brush holder and regulator, insulating sleeves and washers are retained, and unscrew the capacitor from the end frame. If the slip ring end-frame bearing is dry or noisy it has to be replaced: remove the old bearing and throw away the oil seal, then press in a new bearing until it just fits into the end frame and install a new oil seal. Driving the entire shaft clockwise, introduce a 5/16 inch Allen wrench into the socket at the drive pulley end to lock the shaft, undo the pulley retainer nut, do away with the washer, pulley, fan and spacer respectively. Take off the rotor and spacers of the drive end-frame and, if the bearing in the drive end-frame is non-oily or rukey, then replace it. Release the bearing by loosening the retainer plate bolts and then unbolting the plate/seal assembly, or where a plastic cartridge retainer is used, pressing out the old bearing and pressing in the new one, with the correct location of the slinger and the application of grease to be in proper position. When everything is detached from the alternator, wipe all parts using compressed air, avoiding contact between solvent and stator or rotor windings, and observe for signs of wear or damage, and order new components if existent. To clean the slip rings slide 400-grit abrasive paper against them while rotating the rotor; if the rings are flat or have worn grooves, replace the rotor assembly. The brushes should be inspected for use, any that are worn half through or more should be dispensed with while springs should only be replaced if they look weak or distorted. Reassembly just means assembling again and very carefully - It is necessary to tighten the pulley nut to the involved torque, to put the insulating washers and sleeves properly on the brush clip screws, to clean the contact surfaces of the brushes before installing the slip ring end-frame, to lift the brushes in their holders with a thin stick, and align the marks made before dismantling on the slip ring and the drive end-frame.