Oldsmobile 10465167 Starter,(Remanufacture) *Use Starter

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Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Working under the vehicle, remove any starter braces or shields, if used. Label the electrical wires and then disconnect them from the starter solenoid. Remove the 2 starter bolts and slowly lower the starter from the engine, noting the locations of any shims, if used. Shims are used on some engines to establish the correct clearance between the starter pinion and the flywheel/driveplate starter ring gear. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to install the shims (if any) that were noted during removal. Tighten the starter mounting bolts securely. If the starter whines during or after engine starting, shimming may be necessary. Disconnect the cable from the negative equipped with an anti-theft audio system, disable the anti-theft feature before performing any operation that requires disconnecting the battery or disrupting power to the stereo. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the bellhousing lower cover. Inspect the flywheel or driveplate for signs of unusual wear such as chipped or missing gear teeth. Using a wire type feeler gauge (round diameter), measure the clearance between the top of the flywheel/driveplate ring gear tooth and the bottom of the starter pinion tooth. Use a screwdriver to manually engage the starter pinion with the ring gear. The clearance should be between 0.01 to 0.06 inches. If the clearance is less than 0.02 inch and the starter whined after engagement, the starter is too close to the ring gear and must be shimmed to increase the clearance. If the clearance is greater than 0.06 inches and the starter whines during engagement, the starter is too far away from the ring gear and a shim(s) must be removed. Remove a shim, tighten the starter and measure the clearance again. To install a shim, loosen the inner starter mounting bolt (the one closest to the engine), remove the outer bolt and then slide the shim between the starter and the engine without removing the starter.

To disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal, first ensure that the lockout feature is turned off on models with the Theftlock audio system. Then, remove the starter motor shield if it is present. Next, raise the vehicle and securely support it on jackstands. Label and disconnect the wires from the terminals on the starter motor and solenoid. After that, remove the mounting bolts and detach the starter. To reinstall, follow the reverse order of removal.

Start 2WD Starter removal by disconnecting the negative battery cable, and then raise the front of the vehicle, supporting it securely on jack stands. In some V6 models, you might have to remove the right front wheel for accessibility purpose. The next step is removing the front exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold. Remove brace rod from in front of engine to bell housing on 2.2L engines; alternatively remove support bracket that goes from starter front to block on some models prior to 1999 if equipped. If your vehicle has a starter heat shield, take it off now.Unbolt solenoid wire and battery cable ends at solenoid (underneath vehicle), then finally undo starter mounting bolts and remove unit. Consideration also should be given to whether there are any spacer shims fitted between motor body and attaching point.Eliminate starter motor noting spacers present, if any are there.To reinstall proceed knowing original positions of necessary shim(s).Now for 4WD Starter removal start by disconnecting the negative battery cable lift up jack stands under secure jack stands at the center of vehicle's rear axle assembly after raising its front end wheels off ground; thus enabling easier access.Remove left wheel (on 2.2L models) or right wheel (on 4.3L V6); this action is intended to make it easy for you when pulling out the component.Once again on two-point-two liter engines just slide off driveshaft towards its back.In certain early versions it may be necessary to raise engine/transmission using a transmission jack under transmission while removing transmission cross member for access to address simple bolts holding starter motor.However if provided with one, get rid of heat shield for starter wiring harness leading directly into solenoid switch.Insert wires coming from down under vehicle into terminals located on top of solenoid but still stay below nuts tightened against post threads.Slide out starter motor watching for shims or spacers if any are present.Install in reverse order of removal, making sure it is re-positioned in its original position and the shim is inserted between the engine block and the starter without removing.Correcting shimming remove the bell housing cover. At this stage, inspect flywheel or drive plate for abnormally worn areas, etc.Take a feeler gauge of round diameter with wire type leaves and determine distance from top of flywheel gear tooth to bottom of pinion tooth in starter from inside (not teeth tips) where clearance should be 0.01 to 0.06 inches.A starter whine usually indicates low clearance caused by too tight shimming.Worn pinion bearings also cause a whine during cranking.Loosen inner bolt slightly; then remove outer one before slipping spacer adjustment through narrow opening made outside engine block which separates it against crankshaft.So you see that installation removes only one additional spacer while retaining rest of them when applying because there was no need to separate motor upon lowering vehicle's entire weight down on its front wheels.

If the starter motor does not operate at all but the solenoid clicks, the problem could be with either the battery, the main solenoid contacts, or the starter motor itself. Before diagnosing starter problems, make sure that the battery is fully charged.

If the starter motor spins but the engine does not crank, the overrunning clutch in the starter motor may be slipping, and you'll need to replace the motor.

The steps for removing the starter in a 2WD vehicle are as follows:Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Check the starter cranking voltage and current draw from the battery while the starter is on the engine. Ensure that the battery is in good condition, with clean terminals and cables, and that the cold-cranking rating is suitable for the application. In extreme cold temperatures, warm the battery and engine block before testing.

To assess the adjustment of the PNP switch, verify whether the starter engages when the ignition switch is turned to the start position.

To install the new starter motor assembly, you should perform the installation in reverse order, ensuring that the starter mounting bolts are tightened to the specified torque.

Remove and bench-test the starter motor assembly. Check the solenoid plunger, shift lever, and overrunning clutch for proper operation to identify any defects in the starter motor or solenoid. If the pinion drive extends but doesn't rotate, the solenoid is operational but the starter motor is defective. If there's no movement and the solenoid clicks, either the solenoid or starter motor is defective. If the solenoid plunger extends and rotates the pinion drive, the starter assembly is operating correctly.

If you can't hear the solenoid plunger when the switch is activated, the solenoid may be defective or there may be an open circuit. To check the solenoid, connect a jumper lead between the battery (+) and the "S" terminal on the solenoid. If the starter motor operates, the solenoid is fine, and the problem may be with the ignition switch, neutral start switch, or wiring.

If the solenoid clicks but the starter motor does not operate, the issue may lie with the battery, main solenoid contacts, or the starter motor itself.

To diagnose slow cranking, run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, then stop the engine, disconnect the coil wire from the distributor cap, and ground it on the engine. Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the starter motor terminal of the solenoid and the negative lead to the ground. Crank the engine and take voltmeter readings as soon as a steady figure is indicated, making sure not to let the starter motor turn for more than 15 seconds at a time. A reading of 9 volts or more, with the starter motor turning at normal cranking speed, is normal. If the reading is 9 volts or more but the cranking speed is slow, the motor is faulty. If the reading is less than 9 volts and the cranking speed is slow, the solenoid contacts are likely burned.