Hummer 12547207 Pipe,Brake & Fuel Feed & Fuel Return & Evap Emission

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Periodically examine all hydraulic brake lines, both rigid and flexible, for rusting, chafing, and general deterioration, while also checking the security of the connections. If hoses or pipes must be disconnected, extensive loss of fluid can be avoided by taping over the vent holes in the master cylinder fluid reservoir cap to create a vacuum. For drum brakes, use a back-up wrench on the hose fitting to unscrew the connector, remove the U-shaped retainer, withdraw the hose fitting from the support bracket, turn it out of the wheel cylinder, and remove the copper gasket. When installing, use a new copper gasket, moisten the screw threads with brake fluid, and torque-tighten to the wheel cylinder. With the weight on the suspension and the wheels straight ahead, insert the female end of the hose through the support bracket, allowing it to seek its own position without kinking, then install the U-shaped retainer and secure the hose in the bracket. Turn the wheels from lock to lock to ensure the hose does not contact other parts, repositioning the female end if necessary. Place the tubular steel connector in the hose fitting and torque-tighten using a back-up wrench. Remove the tape from the master cylinder reservoir, top up with new brake fluid, and bleed the system of air. For disc brakes, to disconnect a rigid line from a flexible hose, unscrew the connector from the hose end fitting, located at the support brackets, while holding the flexible hose and fitting still with an open-ended wrench. To remove the flexible hose, extract the retainer and pull the hose from the support bracket, then remove the hose to caliper bolt, center connector, and the hose. Installation is a reversal of removal, always using new copper gaskets with the flexible hose end fittings and allowing the flexible hose to take up its natural curvature without securing it in a twisted or kinked position. Rigid lines that need replacement can be purchased at many service stations; take the old pipe as a pattern, ensuring the pipes are fitted with the correct connectors and that the ends are double-flared.

Periodically examine all hydraulic brake lines, both rigid and flexible, for rusting, chafing, and general deterioration, while also checking the security of the connections. If hoses or pipes must be disconnected, extensive loss of fluid can be avoided by taping over the vent holes in the master cylinder fluid reservoir cap to create a vacuum. For drum brakes, use a back-up wrench on the hose fitting to unscrew the connector, remove the U-shaped retainer, withdraw the hose fitting from the support bracket, turn it out of the wheel cylinder, and remove the copper gasket. When installing, use a new copper gasket, moisten the screw threads with brake fluid, and torque-tighten to the wheel cylinder. With the weight on the suspension and the wheels straight ahead, insert the female end of the hose through the support bracket, allowing it to seek its own position without kinking, then install the U-shaped retainer and secure the hose in the bracket. Turn the wheels from lock-to-lock to ensure that the hose does not contact other parts, repositioning the female end if necessary. Place the tubular steel connector in the hose fitting and torque-tighten using a back-up wrench. Remove the tape from the master cylinder reservoir, top up with new brake fluid, and bleed the system of air. For disc brakes, to disconnect a rigid line from a flexible hose, unscrew the connector from the hose end fitting, located at the support brackets, while holding the flexible hose and fitting still with an open-ended wrench. To remove the flexible hose, extract the retainer and pull the hose from the support bracket, then remove the hose to caliper bolt, the center connector, and the hose. Installation is a reversal of removal, always using new copper gaskets with the flexible hose end fittings and allowing the flexible hose to take up its natural curvature without securing it in a twisted or kinked position. Rigid lines that need replacement can be purchased at many service stations; take the old pipe as a pattern to ensure the new pipes are fitted with the correct connectors and that the ends are double-flared.

At least twice a year, inspect the flexible hydraulic brake hoses connecting the steel brake lines with the front and rear brake calipers for any signs of cracks, chafing, leaks, blisters, or road damage, as these hoses are crucial and susceptible components of the brake system. A thorough inspection using a light and mirror is recommended, and any hose showing damage should be replaced. For the front brake hose, clean the hose and fittings, remove the rivet securing the brake hose clip to the upper A-arm, take off the U-clip from the female fitting at the support bracket, and detach the hose from the caliper, discarding the copper washers. When installing, use new copper washers, lubricate the bolt threads with clean brake fluid, attach the hose to the caliper without twisting, install the U-clip, rivet the brake hose clip back, and ensure there are no kinks in the hose while checking for contact with the suspension during wheel turns. For the rear brake hose, disconnect it from the brake line at the mounting bracket, remove the U-clip, detach the bracket from the strut, and take off the bolt securing the fitting block to the caliper. When installing, attach the hose assembly to the brake line, secure the spring clip, connect the fitting block to the caliper with new copper washers, and reattach the brake line to the strut, ensuring the brake fluid level is maintained and the system is bled. For steel brake lines, various lengths of prefabricated brake line are available, which can be bent by hand or with a tubing bender; if not available, obtain the recommended steel tubing and fittings, measure the old line for length, cut the new tubing with extra length for double-flaring, install fittings, and double-flare the ends before bending to match the old line's shape.

Disconnect the two steel brake lines from the junction block at the rear axle.

ITS SOLD IN A 20FT ROLL FROM GM..

its a roll

PART COMES IN A ROLL, NOT FLANGED, AND THAT IS CORRECT

it will just be a coil of tubing.