GM 89060436 Seal Kit,Crankshaft Rear Oil

You can Select Your Vehicle to check if 89060436 fits your vehicle.

Remove the transmission and the driveplate. Take a screwdriver and pry the Crankshaft Seal from the rear cover without nicking or scratching the seal bore, or crankshaft. Note how far it is recessed into this housing bore prior to removal so that the new seal can be set at this depth. Grab a shop towel and thoroughly clean out all traces of oil and dirt from the block's seal bore. Do not lubricate the seal or touch the sealing lip. Make sure that it is installed properly as it has reverse-lip design on it. The second requirement is that you must see its part number when this seal has been installed. The best way to do this is to use a tool for installing seals to fit in this new one by pushing the tool onto it until it goes back into its place completely. In case, there isn't an appropriate seal installing instrument, one can take a big drift and softly drive this new seal directly into its bore located near rear cover; after which, flush them together so they appear even with one another. Finally, install drive plate and transmission again.

Remove the transmission and the driveplate. Inspect the oil seal, as well as the oil pan and engine block surface for signs of leakage. Sometimes an oil pan gasket leak can appear to be a rear Crankshaft Seal leak. Pry the Crankshaft Seal from the block with a screwdriver, being careful not to nick or scratch the crankshaft or the seal bore. Thoroughly clean the seal bore in the block with a shop towel, removing all traces of oil and dirt. Lubricate all surfaces with a very small amount of engine oil. Install the Crankshaft Seal over the end of the crankshaft and carefully tap it into place. Most seals are marked "This Side Out" to eliminate confusion as they have a different design than the old-style seals previously used. The tool tightly fits the diameter of the Crankshaft Seal and, used with a hammer, drives the seal in. Install the driveplate and the transmission.

The rear Crankshaft Seal cannot be removed from the seal housing; both components are only serviceable as a single unit. Begin by disconnecting the cable from the negative battery terminal. Next, remove the transmission, followed by the flywheel/driveplate and the oil pan. After that, remove the retaining bolts to detach the seal housing from the engine. Thoroughly clean the mounting surfaces of the oil pan, rear Crankshaft Seal housing, and engine block to eliminate old gasket material and sealer, using a rag soaked in lacquer thinner, acetone, or brake cleaner. Install two threaded dowel pins to the cylinder block for proper alignment of the rear Crankshaft Seal housing. Apply a 1/8-inch (3mm) wide bead of RTV sealant around the mating face of the rear Crankshaft Seal housing, ensuring not to fill the bolt holes. Slide the seal over the crankshaft and dowel pins, then tighten the upper bolts finger-tight. Most new rear Crankshaft Seals and housing assemblies come with a seal protector on the inside running face of the seal, which should remain in place until the housing is positioned. Remove the dowel pins and install the remaining rear Crankshaft Seal housing bolts, tightening them to the specified torque before removing the seal protector. Proceed to install the oil pan and flywheel/driveplate. The remainder of the installation follows the reverse order of removal. Finally, add oil, run the engine, and check for any oil leaks.

Take out the transmission and driveshaft out of the car entirely. Following that, remove the flywheel/driveplate. By using a screw driver you pry the Crankshaft Seal from the rear cover being very careful not to damage the crankshaft or scratch the seal bore. Observe the depth of the old seal for the right fit before installing the new seal, then, use shop towel in cleaning the seal bore to remove any oil or dirt. Put some oil on the outer diameter of the new seal, and place it over the tip of the crankshaft with the help of your fingers; the lips should face the engine. If possible, recommended sealing installation tool should be used and in the absence of the tool, a large socket, a section of a pipe or any blunt tool must be used to force the seal to fit tightly in the bore and flush with the rear cover. Last but not the least, refit the flywheel/driveplate and even the transmission and the driveshaft.

Remove the transmission and the driveplate. Take a screwdriver and pry the Crankshaft Seal from the rear cover without nicking or scratching the seal bore, or crankshaft. Note how far it is recessed into this housing bore prior to removal so that the new seal can be set at this depth. Grab a shop towel and thoroughly clean out all traces of oil and dirt from the block's seal bore. Do not lubricate the seal or touch the sealing lip. Make sure that it is installed properly as it has reverse-lip design on it. The second requirement is that you must see its part number when this seal has been installed. The best way to do this is to use a tool for installing seals to fit in this new one by pushing the tool onto it until it goes back into its place completely. In case, there isn't an appropriate seal installing instrument, one can take a big drift and softly drive this new seal directly into its bore located near rear cover; after which, flush them together so they appear even with one another. Finally, install drive plate and transmission again.

Remove the transmission and the driveplate. Inspect the oil seal, as well as the oil pan and engine block surface for signs of leakage. Sometimes an oil pan gasket leak can appear to be a rear Crankshaft Seal leak. Pry the Crankshaft Seal from the block with a screwdriver, being careful not to nick or scratch the crankshaft or the seal bore. Thoroughly clean the seal bore in the block with a shop towel, removing all traces of oil and dirt. Lubricate all surfaces with a very small amount of engine oil. Install the Crankshaft Seal over the end of the crankshaft and carefully tap it into place. Most seals are marked "This Side Out" to eliminate confusion as they have a different design than the old-style seals previously used. The tool tightly fits the diameter of the Crankshaft Seal and, used with a hammer, drives the seal in. Install the driveplate and the transmission.

Remove the transmission and the driveplate. Take a screwdriver and pry the Crankshaft Seal from the rear cover without nicking or scratching the seal bore, or crankshaft. Note how far it is recessed into this housing bore prior to removal so that the new seal can be set at this depth. Grab a shop towel and thoroughly clean out all traces of oil and dirt from the block's seal bore. Do not lubricate the seal or touch the sealing lip. Make sure that it is installed properly as it has reverse-lip design on it. The second requirement is that you must see its part number when this seal has been installed. The best way to do this is to use a tool for installing seals to fit in this new one by pushing the tool onto it until it goes back into its place completely. In case, there isn't an appropriate seal installing instrument, one can take a big drift and softly drive this new seal directly into its bore located near rear cover; after which, flush them together so they appear even with one another. Finally, install drive plate and transmission again.

Remove the transmission and the driveplate. Inspect the oil seal, as well as the oil pan and engine block surface for signs of leakage. Sometimes an oil pan gasket leak can appear to be a rear Crankshaft Seal leak. Pry the Crankshaft Seal from the block with a screwdriver, being careful not to nick or scratch the crankshaft or the seal bore. Thoroughly clean the seal bore in the block with a shop towel, removing all traces of oil and dirt. Lubricate all surfaces with a very small amount of engine oil. Install the Crankshaft Seal over the end of the crankshaft and carefully tap it into place. Most seals are marked "This Side Out" to eliminate confusion as they have a different design than the old-style seals previously used. The tool tightly fits the diameter of the Crankshaft Seal and, used with a hammer, drives the seal in. Install the driveplate and the transmission.

Remove the transmission and the driveplate. Inspect the oil seal, as well as the oil pan and engine block surface for signs of leakage. Sometimes an oil pan gasket leak can appear to be a rear Crankshaft Seal leak. Pry the Crankshaft Seal from the block with a screwdriver, being careful not to nick or scratch the crankshaft or the seal bore. Thoroughly clean the seal bore in the block with a shop towel, removing all traces of oil and dirt. Lubricate all surfaces with a very small amount of engine oil. Install the Crankshaft Seal over the end of the crankshaft and carefully tap it into place. Most seals are marked "This Side Out" to eliminate confusion as they have a different design than the old-style seals previously used. The tool tightly fits the diameter of the Crankshaft Seal and, used with a hammer, drives the seal in. Install the driveplate and the transmission.

Remove the transmission and the driveplate. Take a screwdriver and pry the Crankshaft Seal from the rear cover without nicking or scratching the seal bore, or crankshaft. Note how far it is recessed into this housing bore prior to removal so that the new seal can be set at this depth. Grab a shop towel and thoroughly clean out all traces of oil and dirt from the block's seal bore. Do not lubricate the seal or touch the sealing lip. Make sure that it is installed properly as it has reverse-lip design on it. The second requirement is that you must see its part number when this seal has been installed. The best way to do this is to use a tool for installing seals to fit in this new one by pushing the tool onto it until it goes back into its place completely. In case, there isn't an appropriate seal installing instrument, one can take a big drift and softly drive this new seal directly into its bore located near rear cover; after which, flush them together so they appear even with one another. Finally, install drive plate and transmission again.

Remove the transmission and the driveplate. Inspect the oil seal, as well as the oil pan and engine block surface for signs of leakage. Sometimes an oil pan gasket leak can appear to be a rear Crankshaft Seal leak. Pry the Crankshaft Seal from the block with a screwdriver, being careful not to nick or scratch the crankshaft or the seal bore. Thoroughly clean the seal bore in the block with a shop towel, removing all traces of oil and dirt. Lubricate all surfaces with a very small amount of engine oil. Install the Crankshaft Seal over the end of the crankshaft and carefully tap it into place. Most seals are marked "This Side Out" to eliminate confusion as they have a different design than the old-style seals previously used. The tool tightly fits the diameter of the Crankshaft Seal and, used with a hammer, drives the seal in. Install the driveplate and the transmission.

Carefully pry the oil seal out of the cover using a seal puller or a large screwdriver, taking care not to damage the crankshaft or distort the cover. Wrapping electrical tape around the screwdriver tip can help prevent damage.

Use a screwdriver or hook tool to carefully pry out the seal, taking care not to damage the cylinder block and main bearing bore or the nose and sealing surface of the crankshaft. Alternatively, you can drill a small hole on each side of the seal and insert self-tapping screws to pull the seal out without prying.

Install two threaded dowel pins to the cylinder block for correct rear main oil seal housing alignment.

Start installing the new seal by pressing it into the oil pump cover. Once it is started, use a seal driver or a suitable socket of the correct size to carefully drive the seal squarely into place, ensuring it is flush with the engine cover and remains square when installed.

The remainder of the installation follows the reverse order of removal.

Pry the oil seal from the rear cover using a screwdriver, being careful not to nick or scratch the crankshaft or the seal bore.

Before reinstalling the vibration damper, lubricate the seal lips with engine oil.

If the seal is being replaced with the timing chain cover removed, support the cover on top of two blocks of wood and drive the seal out from the rear with a hammer and punch.

Remove the crankshaft balancer.

Ideally, a seal installation tool should be used.

Special tools must be used to properly center the housing over the end of the crankshaft.

During installation, inspect the pulley for damage, lubricate the outside of the oil seal (not the inside), and drive the seal into the front cover until seated. Install a new pulley shim against the crankshaft sprocket, raise the vehicle securely, place the pulley on the crankshaft, and push it into place with the installer tool, avoiding the use of a hammer.

Carefully pry the oil seal out of the cover with a seal puller or a large screwdriver, ensuring not to damage the crankshaft in the process.

Be careful not to scratch, gouge, or distort the area that the seal fits into, or a leak will develop.

The remainder of the installation is the reverse of the removal.

Inspect the oil seal, oil pan, engine block surface, and oil seal housing for any signs of leakage, as an oil pan gasket leak may mimic a rear oil seal leak.

The old seal should be pried out carefully, noting its recessed depth for proper installation of the new seal.

For 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L V8 engines, loosely install the rear seal housing retaining bolts and align the housing by measuring the distance from the oil pan rail to the seal housing on both sides, adjusting as necessary to achieve even measurements before tightening the bolts.

Lubricate the outside diameter of the new seal.

Carefully pry the oil seal out of the cover using a seal puller or a large screwdriver, taking care not to damage the crankshaft or distort the cover. Wrapping electrician's tape around the screwdriver tip can help prevent damage.

Lubricate the seal lips with engine oil.

Ideally, a seal installation tool should be used.

Yes, a special aftermarket tool may be available at local auto parts stores to assist with this process; it fits the diameter of the seal and, when used with a hammer, drives the seal in without exceeding the depth of the original installation.

The press-on sleeve can be pressed into place with a hammer and a block of wood.

Remove the crankshaft balancer and note how the seal is installed, ensuring the new one is positioned to the same depth and orientation.

The press-on sleeve is installed with a hammer and a block of wood by pressing it into place.

Apply clean engine oil or multi-purpose grease to the outer edge of the new seal.

A large socket, section of pipe, or blunt tool can be used to drive the seal squarely into the bore and flush with the rear cover.

Install the new seal over the end of the crankshaft, ensuring the lips point toward the engine, and carefully tap it into place.

Note how the seal is installed. The new one must be installed to the same depth and facing the same way.

A vibration damper installation tool should be used to press the damper onto the crankshaft.

You can carefully pry the oil seal out of the cover with a seal puller or a large screwdriver.

If the seal is being replaced with the timing chain cover removed, support the cover on top of two blocks of wood and drive the seal out from the rear with a hammer and punch.

It is important to ensure the new seal is installed to the same depth.

It is crucial to avoid damaging the crankshaft threads because it can lead to complications in the installation and removal of the pulley, potentially causing further damage to the engine components.

The first step is to take out the driveplate and inspect the oil seal, oil pan, engine block surface, and oil seal housing for any signs of leakage, as an oil pan gasket leak can sometimes mimic a rear oil seal leak.

Note how the seal is installed. The new one must be installed to the same depth and facing the same way.

Check the balancer hub surface for grooves caused by long-term contact with the seal.

Lubricate the balancer hub with clean engine oil and reinstall the crankshaft balancer. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

The remainder of the installation is the reverse of removal, meaning you should reassemble the components that were previously removed.

Install two bolts into the jackscrew holes in the housing and carefully tighten each screw until the housing separates from the block, then remove it.

It is crucial to protect the crankshaft end surface and the engine front cover.

The old oil seal should be carefully pried from the rear cover using a screwdriver, taking care not to nick or scratch the crankshaft or the seal bore.

Carefully pry the oil seal out of the cover with a seal puller or a large screwdriver. Be very careful not to distort the cover or scratch the crankshaft. Wrap the electrician's tape around the tip of the screwdriver to avoid damage to the crankshaft.

Drive the seal into place with a large socket and hammer, ensuring it enters the bore squarely and stopping when the front face is at the proper depth.

Lubricate the pulley hub with clean engine oil.

Most seals are marked "This Side Out" to eliminate confusion, as they have a different design than old-style seals.

The new seal should be positioned in the bore with the seal lip (usually the side with the spring) facing IN (toward the engine).

A large drift can be used to carefully drive the new seal squarely into the seal bore and flush with the rear cover.

The driveplate and the transmission should be installed.

use part# 12623359 x1 84214924 x1 22768504 x1 12698626 x4 89060436 x1 15272179 x2 and 12657093 x2 per vin#

This rear crankshaft seal is made from rubber