GM 88971208 Cylinder,Brake Master

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To remove the brake master cylinder, begin by taking off the cover from the air filter housing and unplugging the electrical connector for the brake fluid level warning switch. If there is a manual transaxle in the car, disconnect the fluid line that links the brake master cylinder reservoir to clutch master cylinder. Take out as much of it as possible from its container and tighten a clamp around it where it meets up with clutch master cylinder if needed. Using a flare-nut wrench, slacken off fittings at each end of brake lines where they enter into brake master cylinders. Seize those brake lines off masters and plug their ends. Get rid of nuts holding down your boss on power amplifier with care and gently take this boss away from studs. To install a new brake master cylinder, bench bleed it first by mounting it in a vise and attaching some tubes coming out of outlet ports of this to be bled part. Fill reservoir with hydraulic liquid slowly pushing plunger inside until all air bubbles are expelled from the system. Repeat operation several times more until all signs of air have been completely removed from the cylinder; subsequently remove bleeding lines inserting plugs into output openings thereof; now adjust booster rod length while placing a fresh ring on pump unit casing like O-ring; go further to put back both 'reservoir' cap followed by said 'master'. After screwing pipe connections into bosses, fasten retaining screws up against car body; connect hydraulic tube to fitting located on the back side (opposite side) of the flange of the control assembly; fill in the reservoir with the necessary amount of oil ensuring you have carried out before bleeding it together braking mechanism along the mastoid process or other structures behind the temporal bone articular surface while safely testing brakes upon vehicle re-entry into service mode again as usual.