Chevrolet 1105364 GENERATOR

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Because of how sensitive and extensive some of the activities involved in disassembling and testing the various alternator parts are, it may be prudent for the ordinary car owner to opt for a new of a rebuilt unit. In case an overhaul is selected, make sure you have replacement parts on hand before going to that option. Start off by taking out the alternator and the pulley before immobilizing the alternator and placing the mounting flange in a vice under pressure. The four through-bolts allow easy dismantling of the slip-ring and end frame together with the stator from the drive-end and rotor assembly using a screwdriver levering action while noting the positions of corresponding parts before removal for ease of reassembly. Further, unscrew the nuts fastening the stator lead and pull the stator away from the end frame, undo the screws to open the brush holder assembly, and remove the heat sink after unplugging the BAT and GAD terminals and a screw. Further strip by disconnecting the rectifier bridge, screw of securing, BAT terminal screw the lead of the capacitor, and finally, remove the rectifier bridge of the end frame. Loosen the hex screws which secures the brush holder and regulator, insulating sleeves and washers are retained, and unscrew the capacitor from the end frame. If the slip ring end-frame bearing is dry or noisy it has to be replaced: remove the old bearing and throw away the oil seal, then press in a new bearing until it just fits into the end frame and install a new oil seal. Driving the entire shaft clockwise, introduce a 5/16 inch Allen wrench into the socket at the drive pulley end to lock the shaft, undo the pulley retainer nut, do away with the washer, pulley, fan and spacer respectively. Take off the rotor and spacers of the drive end-frame and, if the bearing in the drive end-frame is non-oily or rukey, then replace it. Release the bearing by loosening the retainer plate bolts and then unbolting the plate/seal assembly, or where a plastic cartridge retainer is used, pressing out the old bearing and pressing in the new one, with the correct location of the slinger and the application of grease to be in proper position. When everything is detached from the alternator, wipe all parts using compressed air, avoiding contact between solvent and stator or rotor windings, and observe for signs of wear or damage, and order new components if existent. To clean the slip rings slide 400-grit abrasive paper against them while rotating the rotor; if the rings are flat or have worn grooves, replace the rotor assembly. The brushes should be inspected for use, any that are worn half through or more should be dispensed with while springs should only be replaced if they look weak or distorted. Reassembly just means assembling again and very carefully - It is necessary to tighten the pulley nut to the involved torque, to put the insulating washers and sleeves properly on the brush clip screws, to clean the contact surfaces of the brushes before installing the slip ring end-frame, to lift the brushes in their holders with a thin stick, and align the marks made before dismantling on the slip ring and the drive end-frame.

Because of the sensitivity of different parts of the alternator it might be more appropriate for the home mechanic to replace the faulty unit with a new one or a rebuilt one. However, if an overhaul is selected, it is essential to check avaiable of substitute components before proceeding. First of all, unlatch the alternator and pulley; thereafter hold the alternator in a vise for instance applying pressure in the mounting flange. To disassemble both the slip-ring, end frame, and stator assembly from the drive-end and the rotor assembly, unbolt the four through-bolts using a screwdriver then lever off H, I, K and L while aligning the drive-end frame G with mark G1 for reassembly. Then, unscrew the nuts connecting the stator lead, to release the stator from the end frame, thereafter, unthread the rectifier bridge, securing screw, and BAT terminal screw to unclip the capacitor lead and remove the rectifier bridge from the end frame. Remove the two security screws to pull out the brush holder and the regulator along with the insulating sleeves and washers and take out the capacitor from the end frame. If the slip ring end-frame bearing is dry or noisy it should be replaced, not greased; remove the old bearing with a hydraulic press, remove the oil seal, insert the new bearing until it conforms with the end frame, refit a new oil seal while adequately supporting the end frame. To the drive pulley end insert a ¼ inch Allen wrench to lock the shaft from rotating; then remove the pulley retaining nut followed by the washer, the pulley, the fan, and lastly the spacer. The rotor and the spacers need to be taken out from the drive end frame and if the bearing of the drive end frame was found either dry or noisy, it will have to be replaced without greasing. Remove the retainer plate bolts and separate the plate / seal assembly, to remove the bearing and replace it with a tube on the inner and outer races, making sure that the slinger is properly in its place and use the recommended grease before putting it back into use. After the alternator is totally disassembled, wash all the components, but do not use solvent on the stator or rotor windings and look for the signs of wear or damage; then replace the worn-out parts with the new ones. Wipe slip rings to free them of filth; when scraping the rotor turn it while holding 400 grain abrasive paper on slip rings to prevent making flat spots; deep scoring or very bad wear in slip rings indicates that the complete rotor needs to be replaced. Look at the brushes - if they look like this, throw them away, and replace the springs only if they look flimsy or misshapen halfway along their length. Reassembly is the process opposite to dismantling which requires certain specific details like tightening of the pulley nut until it gets fully tightened, proper positioning of insulating washers and sleeves on brush clip screws, cleaning brush contact surfaces before fixing the slip ring end frame, holding brushes up in their holders with a thin rod during assembling and rechecking the marks placed on the slip ring and drive end frame before starting dismantling.

When working with an alternator, it is important to pay attention to the polarity connections of the battery when connecting the battery cables. Make sure to connect the correct cable to the corresponding terminal.

Hold the alternator shaft still with an Allen wrench while unscrewing the pulley nut.

Maintenance involves occasionally wiping away dirt or oil, checking the tension of the driving belt, and noting that no lubrication is needed since the alternator bearings are grease sealed for their lifespan.

Installation is a reversal of removal; adjust the drivebelt tension.

Extreme care should be taken to ensure correct polarity when connecting to the alternator from a battery.