Chevrolet 30010282 CALIPER A

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If an overhaul is indicated, often because of leakage problems, think of every possibility before beginning the process. This is where new and factory rebuild calipers are obtainable by an exchange method making it easy to acquire them. When the plan is to rebuild the calipers, it is recommended to have a rebuild kit before starting the process and also always rebuild the calipers in set of two. The procedure starts with the removal of the lid on the brake fluid holder, then about two thirds of the fluid is sucked out and disposed off. Uncenter the wheel lug nuts, lift the front part of the vehicle, and then place it on jackstands before, removing the front wheels. Take a large C-clamp and force it backward towards the piston, just be sure that one of the arms of the clamp leans on the flat surface of the caliper and the other arm presses the outer brake pad. If only the caliper is being removed it is advisable not to take the brake hose off the caliper; instead take off the brake hose inlet fitting bolt and have a rag ready to contain any dripping fluid, and wrap a piece of plastic around the hose to minimize the loss as well as contamination of the brake fluid. To disassemble it, two mounting bolts are to be eliminated, which hold the caliper to the car. Next, take off the brake pads out of the caliper and to clean the exterior use brake cleaner or denatured alcohol but avoid gasoline or any petroleum products. Place a piece of wooden block or shop rags on the top of piston and apply compressed air to take out the piston of the caliper and one should be very careful while doing this step to avoid any injury. Take extra caution to take out the dust boot, and use a wooden or a plastic tool to pull out the piston seal out of the groove in the caliper bore. Take out the caliper bleeder screw and eliminate the bushing on the caliper ears and all rubber associated with it. Scrape off the rest of the contaminants and use brake system cleaner to clean the remaining parts, and with the aid of compressed air, blow on the piston to check for any defect and also check the caliper bore. It is advisable to use crocus cloth for light polishing for those bearing minor corrosion and those mounting bolts that have been corroded or are damaged should be replaced. While assembling, apply brake fluid onto the piston bores and apply the seal in the right way in the groove. Oil the piston and replace the boot, after which the piston has to be fitted in the caliper bore and pushed halfway down with a force. Allow the dust boot lip to fit in the groove at the piston and if possible to be level below the caliper face, the piston should be forced back to its place and have the bleeder screw installed. Applying silicone grease with new bushings, place the bushings in the holes of the mounting bolt. Check the mounting bolts for distortion, place the caliper over the rotor and the mounting bracket, fit and tighten the bolts to the standard torque, fit the brake hose and inlet fitting bolt with new copper washers and tighten as per the compulsory torque setting. If the line was disconnected put on a full brake bleed install the wheels and lower the vehicle. Once the job is done the brake pedal should be applied several times in order to make the pad surface in contact with the disc and to test brake function before the vehicle is on the road.