Chevrolet 86511719 ARM ASM-STRG LNKG IDLER

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To replace tie-rod ends, the wheel lug nuts should be first loosed and then the vehicle ought to be raised and with the help of jackstands safely supported before the removal of the wheel. To loosen the contact of the ballstud, unscrew it with the adjusting nut but do not remove it completely in order to avoid violent separation of the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle; then use a two jaw puller to pull off the tie-rod end and remove the jam nut. For the models which are not equipped with the rack-and-pinion, turn the nut on the inner tie-rod end and detach from the relay rod. Probably you should check the number of threads between the end of the adjuster tube to the centre of ballstud before releasing the clamp and removal of the tie-rod end. Apply chassis grease on the threaded part of the new tie-rod end and thread it on the adjuster tube then set the distance according to the first measurement allowing the show of thread both ends to match within three threads. Attach the outer tie-rod end to the steering knuckle, place the jam nut on the threaded shaft of the tie-rod end and fasten it. If, however, the ballstud spins, then with the use of the pliers, push it clockwise into the tapered hole. Place internal tie rod ball joint into the relay rod, screw the nut and tighen it. Screw the clamp nuts tighter to provide the bolt an almost horizontal position and to avoid the alignment of the slot in the adjuster tube to the slots in the clamps. Last of all, put back the wheel and lug nuts, lower the car, and the nut of the wheel is tightened, the front end alignment must be rechecked if needed. For rack-and-pinion models, the tie-rod can be held by the locking pliers or wrench, turning the nut to mark the position and unscrewing the jam nut of the tie-rod end, after that the new tie-rod end has to be placed and tightened at the indicted position by the jam nut. Perform another round of wheel installation as well as the alignment check. For the relay rod replacement the wheel lug nuts are loosened then the vehicle is raised and the wheel removed. Remove the inner tie rod ends from the relay rod turn the Pitman arm to loosen the Pitman arm to relay rod nut, and then remove the relay rod from the Pitman arm with the help of the two jaw puller, and throw away the nut. In the same way, for the idler arm, loosen the idler arm-to-relay rod nut, and take it off with a two-jaw puller, and, at the same time, the idler arm-to-frame bolts. Screw the new idler arm on the frame with the bolts, then fit the idler arm ballstud into the relay rod and tighten a new nut. For the Pitman arm, lift the car off the ground, disconnect the connecting rod from the Pitman arm and then, take off the Pitman arm nut and washer - now, get rid of the nut. Loosen the nut and bolt that holds the lower part of the Pitman arm and align it with the steering gear shaft and finally unbolt the Pitman arm by using puller. Check the ballstud threads and seal, if dirty repair the threads and fit the new Pitman arm, Central axis must align with marks on Pitman arm, use new nut to tighten, torque must be within limit.

Screw it into the adjuster tube and adjust the distance to the previously measured dimension, ensuring the number of threads showing on both ends is equal within three threads.

If play is found in the relay rod or tie-rod, they should be replaced.

If the idler arm has more than 0.078 inches of play, it should be replaced.

When removing and installing the steering damper, the fasteners should be tightened to torque specifications.

To remove and install the idler arm, a two-jaw puller should be used to separate it from the relay rod, and new nuts should be used on the ball stud.