Buick 12491883 Transmission,Auto(Goodwrench Remanufacture)(4Tdd)

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The transmission and torque converter has to be pulled out together and not separately, in order to prevent damage to the converter drive plate, pump bushing and oil seal. First, loosen the negative battery terminal, then safely lift the car on jack stands, as well as if the car is equipped with skid plates, remove them. The exhaust components that have to be removed are the EVAP canister and fuel tank heat shield; it is also necessary to remove the fluid filler tube and drain the transmission fluid. Place the car on a jack and put some wooden on the oil pan of the engine. Supply the transmission with a jack which has been manufactured for the above purpose, and right them with safety chains. The cross member is detached at the transmission mount where the nuts holding it down to the cross member are to be removed, thereby lifting the transmission slightly to free the cross member. Pull up the front end to easily access the top and sides of the engine and the transmission. For 4WD models you should disassemble the transfercase, and for V6 and V8 models the intake manifold is removeable. Remove the shift cable and the vent hose and if equipped take off the transmission heat shield as well. On the left side of the transmission remove the Park/Neutral position switch electrical connector and the main electrical connector and release the transmission wiring harness from retainers. Now unbolt the fuel line support bracket, take out the inspection plug provided at the bottom of bell housing and mark the position of the torque converter with respect to the drive plate. Depending on the model you are working on, you need to; unlock the starter and turn the crankshaft to be able to reach the torque converter-to-drive plate bolts. Remove the shroud to gain access to the transmission cooler lines and cap the end of those lines so that there is no leakage. Safety chain the transmission to the jack and then, unbolt the transmission from the engine. Lower the engine and transmission further to pull out the fill/dipstick tube bracket bolt and then the tube out. Tighten jaws of locking pliers on the bell housing case so that torque converter cannot come out, shift the transmission back to ease its withdrawal from the dowel pins of the engine block. For installation make sure the torque converter is locked in the pump, use transmission fluid on the rear hub if it was removed. Place the torque converter over the front input shaft with this requirement that it engages in stages as the shaft is rotated backward and forward. Reinstall the locking pliers to hold the converter in position now lift the transmission into position. Place the torque converter with the holes that are named before into the drive plate's holes, so the marks made are in alignment. Slide the transmission forward until the dowel pins and torque converter come in contact and there should not be any spaces. Place the transmission dipstick tube and cover it before installing the transmission-to-engine bolts and turning the nuts tightly. Lift the rear on the transmission and bolt in the cross member and get rid of the jacks. The torque converter-to-drive plate bolts should be installed and tightened until snug with the understanding that all the bolts are supposed to be engaged before any of them is tightened down. New retaining rings have to be put on the quick-connect fittings, the transmission fluid cooler lines are fastened, and the electrical connectors connected; the heat shield has to be attached. Torque converter inspection cover is to be connected, along with the shift cable to the transfer case if it has been removed. Reinstall the drive shafts, centre the shift cable, and put back in any of the exhaust system components that were disassembled. Last but not the least, take off the jack stands; let the car down; pour in the transmission with the recommended type of fluid, start the engine and look for any signs of leakage.