Buick 12592506 Spring, Valve

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Both valve springs and valve stem seals can be changed without even having to uninstall the cylinder head; the procedure requires two tools, and a source of compressed air. Start with the spark plugs and the valve covers, proceed and turn the crankshaft until the first piston is at the top on the compression stroke. Take off the rocker arms for the number 1 piston, screw in an adapter into the spark plug hole and join a hose to an air compressor. Expel compressed air in the inside of the cylinder lid in order that the valves be closed that would continue holding these in position and stuff shop rags into the holes found on the head of the cylinder so as to avoid loss of parts and tools into the engine. Hammer on the top of each valve spring retainer lightly to burst the seal and remove the outer keepers using a valve-spring compressor, a magnet or small needle-nose pliers while compressing the spring. If air pressure is for some reason unable to keep the valve closed the face of the valve or seat can become badly worn and the cylinder head is usually then removed for reconditioning. Pop off the old valve stem seals, in EN intake and EXHAUST, and around the top of the valve stem wrap a rubber band put some tape so the stem will not fall into the combustion chamber before cutting the air pressure off. Check valve stem for wear and tear, if bent it will not move freely in the guide and the head has to be taken off for straightening. Again apply the air pressure to lock it in the closed position and then fit the new valve stem seals to the required depth and do not hamper their installation by pushing against the top of the guide. Place the spring and retainer over the valve, crush the valve spring assembly to fit the keepers on the valve stem groove and use a small amount of grease if required to do so. Release pressure inside the spring tool and make sure that the keepers are fitted properly; then detach the air hose and the remove the adapter from the spark plug hole. Perform the said process for the rest of the cylinders; carefully turning the engine to have each piston at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke then regulating air pressure. Last of all, replace the rocker arm assemblies along with the valve covers, start the engine and examine the amount of oil dripping and also any sort of odd noises to be produced by the engine which should be allowed to idle for not less than five minutes then race the engine.

Valve springs and valve stem seals can be thereby changed without removing the cylinder head, these two components need two special tools and a compressed air supply. Start with the spark plugs and the valve covers, turn the crankshaft until the #1 piston is on the top in the compression stroke. Take off the rocker arms of the number 1 piston, screw an adapter in the spark plug hole and attach an airline from the source of compressed air. Put compressed air to the cylinder to close the valves and then use the shop rags to block the cylinder head holes around the valves to avoid dropping of the parts and tools in the engine. They should be tapped lightly with the palm of your hand to break the seal and then they require the use of valve spring compressor to compress the spring while the keepers can be removed by using small needle-nose pliers or by use of magnet. Take out the valve spring and retainer using strictly the pressure of air to keep the valve shut in order to prevent damaging it. Take out the old valve stem seals - take note that the intake and exhaust seals differ, secure a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem to prevent it from falling into the combustion chamber when you release the air pressure. Although this valve is relatively simple, there are several things you have to look at the valve stem, which should not bind in the guide. Reduce air pressure to hold the valve closed, then install the new valve stem seals up to the specified thickness, without clamping them up against their topped guide. Place the spring and retainer on the valve, press the assembly just enough to fit the keepers into place and drop a small quantity of grease if one is needed to hold the keepers into place. Pull the air hose off and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole and then follow the same procedure for all the rest of the cylinders, always sticking to the firing order and basically going through all of the puffs while bringing each of the pistons to the TDC on the compression stroke. Last, bolt on the rocker arm assemblies and the valve covers and crank the engine, inspecting for mainative oil leakage and other odd noises and should let the engine run for at least five minutes at idle and then bring up to its high end rpms.

Check for oil leaks and unusual sounds.